I picked up a guitar yesterday and love it i played for a few hours and learned how to roughly play a couple very basic songs. I loved the finger picking songs i just thought they sounded much more fun and seem much more entertaining. I would like a few suggestions on some good finger picking songs to learn, i am a beginner now but i'd like some songs to look forward to so if you would, just post your favorites and some you may have learned yourself. thanks in advance :)Beginner finger picking songs?
If you don't already know these I would recommend:
-Blackbird, by the Beatles
-Tears in Heaven, by Eric Clapton
-Dust in the Wind, by Kansas
-(and maybe) Bour茅e, by Bach.
These were the first songs I learned for fingerstyle guitar and everyone will recognize them as well.
Good Luck!Beginner finger picking songs?
This is not really a finger picking song, but can be played that way and is very easy to learn.
Fade out (street spirit) by radiohead
http://www.ultimate-guitar.com/tabs/r/ra鈥?/a>
http://youtube.com/watch?v=4v6DKG358gk
Hmm I would try spanish romance I spose it could be a little hard for a beginner but just get that sequence happening and repeat over and over with your picking hand
Good luck!
Deep
http://ultimate-guitar.com/tabs/m/misc_traditional/spanish_romance_tab.htm
Blackbird by the Beatles. Its the first finger picking song most guitarists learn. trust me.
use a pick. i had a friend that only played finger picking songs now he cant use a pick and when he wants to play something without finger picking he cant
Sunday, December 27, 2009
I am getting fish we just got the tank and everything what kind of fish should i get for a beginner?
i need a fish for a beginner.I am getting fish we just got the tank and everything what kind of fish should i get for a beginner?
thease anwser's are totly insane first off gold fish will live for over 20 years and clown fish are salt water so unless he means a clown knife that get very large and are anything but a biginners fish
as a bigginer you need to know about cycleing the tank properly this is the key to everything
in order for anyone to sujest fish properly they need to know what size tank your talking about.
lots of people said gold fish but failed to mention gold fish get quite large and would eventualy need a 20 gallon tank or larger
at the same time if you do not have a heater then recommending tropical type fish would mean certain death for those fish since they need warmer temps
so if you would like my input feel free to contack me with this info I would be more than happy to anwser any and all of your questionsI am getting fish we just got the tank and everything what kind of fish should i get for a beginner?
Goldfish=NOT a good choice! The smallest type get about 6 inches or more, the largest maxes out at a foot and half! Many people do not realize they need to-20 gallons...each!
A good fish would be a betta fish, or some livebearers like guppies, mollies, or platys. I just LOVE platys!
Bettas can go with other fish, but not with other bettas(Unless it is a female and it is in a 10+ gallon tank with 5+ female bettas) Or fish with long flowing colorful fins. Bettas need a 1 gallon minimum, but thrive in larger spaces. You can buy cute little minibow tanks that are about 2.5 gallon that have a liht and a filter, but I prefer no light b/c algae is so hard to control in a little tank, it is much easyer in a small tank with no light, so there will be no algae! If the room temp at your house ever drops below 75F then you need to get a heater from you betta. They like the temp between 75F and 83F I keep mine at 80F
You can either do a fishless cycle or a cycle with a fish b/c the fish will be the ammonia source. Here is how to do a fishless cycle- http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/fi鈥?/a>
Pretty simple! Then once it is cycled, you can add your fish! You can get little 2.5 gallon tank with lids and nothing else for about 12$ at petsmart.
15$ for a small heater fi you need one. The only place I have found it was petco.
2$for gravel
10-20$ in decorations. You will see very cheap plastic plants, but do not get them! They are sharp and can tear your bettas delicate fins! It is a little more expensive, but go for silk plants, your fish will thank you!
15$ in all for betta food(Pellets and freeze dried bloodworms to add variety) de-chlorinator(To take harmfull chemicals out of the water that would kill the fish) and an ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kit that will help you cycle the tank.
All together....about.....40-50 bucks. Cheap for a fish tank! Also, if you do not want to get a filter, you will need to do water changes every 3 days after it is cycled. Or you can buy a small filter for about 10$ and only do water changes once a week.
Now, if you want to set up a small tank of livebearers, its a bit more expensive. I know for a fact at petsmart they have a 10 gallon tank with a light that can grow live plants, for 25$! Then you would need a heater for 15$, filter for 20-30$ and 30-40$ for gravel and decorations. Fishless cycle is a must especially if you are going to get females that will have babies, because babies will die if there is to much ammonia.=(
For a 10 gallon, I say, 1 male and 2 females of each kind. This is so the females will not get stressed and possibly die b/c the male is constantly chasing her to mate. If you do not want baby fish, just get 3 males. Male guppies have flashy tails and pointed anal fins. Females have a fan shaped anal fin. This goes for all livebearers, but the guppies and the swordtails are the only onles that the males have flashy tails. But male livebearers always have pointed anal fins and females always have a fan shaped one.
For that tank I think you should go with
3 guppies(Either 1 male and 2 females or all males)
3 platys(Either 1 male and 2 females or 3 males.)
3 swordtails-With swordtaiols, males tend to be aggressive twards each other, so if you get 3 swordtails, you need to get 1 male and 2 females. They are also social and do better in groups than solo.
For the bottom of the 10 gallon, a school of 4 or 5 cory cats would be cool. They are a small catfish that need to be in groups to be happy.
Good luck with your fish!
Neons, white cloud mountain minnows, harlequin rasboras, anything like that. Most tetras are easy to raise.
Anyone who has said goldfish is wrong. They require a 30 gallon tank because of the amount of waste they produce. Bettas are also easy, if you're looking for a cold water fish.
Don't get the ones you see floating on top of the tank at the store. I know they are easy to catch but they don't do much. I would make sure the ones you get can swim. Check for fins, I think they need fins.
blue neons, guppis, and the ones that suck algae of the tank. that makes the tank low maintenance and you will have an array of nicely coloured fish
First your tank needs to be set up and cycled. Then I would need to know how big it is before I could recommend any fish. You need to stock your tank based on tank size.
**
firstly you need to cycle the aquarium
we need to know the size of the aquarium
if your salt water i recommend a 6 line wrasse. those fish are the best!
any kind of community fish is easy. Community fish (such as the angle fish tetras or any that your local store has that looks cool to you) snails, African dwarf frogs, and Chinese algae eaters would make up a nice tank for beginners just make sure you don't over load your tank get a few at a time but if you get frogs they like to have friends so get at least two.
clown fish if you want if to last you about a year or maybe two
goldfish if you want one for 6 months
I had a fish I didn't like them they would just poop different colors when you were eating gross
Goldfish
:)
I have 6 and they are really easy. Just if you want to get more you can only get goldfish or they will eat each other and hurt each other.
goldfish. if they last you 6 months or more, try japanese fighting fish.
thease anwser's are totly insane first off gold fish will live for over 20 years and clown fish are salt water so unless he means a clown knife that get very large and are anything but a biginners fish
as a bigginer you need to know about cycleing the tank properly this is the key to everything
in order for anyone to sujest fish properly they need to know what size tank your talking about.
lots of people said gold fish but failed to mention gold fish get quite large and would eventualy need a 20 gallon tank or larger
at the same time if you do not have a heater then recommending tropical type fish would mean certain death for those fish since they need warmer temps
so if you would like my input feel free to contack me with this info I would be more than happy to anwser any and all of your questionsI am getting fish we just got the tank and everything what kind of fish should i get for a beginner?
Goldfish=NOT a good choice! The smallest type get about 6 inches or more, the largest maxes out at a foot and half! Many people do not realize they need to-20 gallons...each!
A good fish would be a betta fish, or some livebearers like guppies, mollies, or platys. I just LOVE platys!
Bettas can go with other fish, but not with other bettas(Unless it is a female and it is in a 10+ gallon tank with 5+ female bettas) Or fish with long flowing colorful fins. Bettas need a 1 gallon minimum, but thrive in larger spaces. You can buy cute little minibow tanks that are about 2.5 gallon that have a liht and a filter, but I prefer no light b/c algae is so hard to control in a little tank, it is much easyer in a small tank with no light, so there will be no algae! If the room temp at your house ever drops below 75F then you need to get a heater from you betta. They like the temp between 75F and 83F I keep mine at 80F
You can either do a fishless cycle or a cycle with a fish b/c the fish will be the ammonia source. Here is how to do a fishless cycle- http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/fi鈥?/a>
Pretty simple! Then once it is cycled, you can add your fish! You can get little 2.5 gallon tank with lids and nothing else for about 12$ at petsmart.
15$ for a small heater fi you need one. The only place I have found it was petco.
2$for gravel
10-20$ in decorations. You will see very cheap plastic plants, but do not get them! They are sharp and can tear your bettas delicate fins! It is a little more expensive, but go for silk plants, your fish will thank you!
15$ in all for betta food(Pellets and freeze dried bloodworms to add variety) de-chlorinator(To take harmfull chemicals out of the water that would kill the fish) and an ammonia, nitrite and nitrate test kit that will help you cycle the tank.
All together....about.....40-50 bucks. Cheap for a fish tank! Also, if you do not want to get a filter, you will need to do water changes every 3 days after it is cycled. Or you can buy a small filter for about 10$ and only do water changes once a week.
Now, if you want to set up a small tank of livebearers, its a bit more expensive. I know for a fact at petsmart they have a 10 gallon tank with a light that can grow live plants, for 25$! Then you would need a heater for 15$, filter for 20-30$ and 30-40$ for gravel and decorations. Fishless cycle is a must especially if you are going to get females that will have babies, because babies will die if there is to much ammonia.=(
For a 10 gallon, I say, 1 male and 2 females of each kind. This is so the females will not get stressed and possibly die b/c the male is constantly chasing her to mate. If you do not want baby fish, just get 3 males. Male guppies have flashy tails and pointed anal fins. Females have a fan shaped anal fin. This goes for all livebearers, but the guppies and the swordtails are the only onles that the males have flashy tails. But male livebearers always have pointed anal fins and females always have a fan shaped one.
For that tank I think you should go with
3 guppies(Either 1 male and 2 females or all males)
3 platys(Either 1 male and 2 females or 3 males.)
3 swordtails-With swordtaiols, males tend to be aggressive twards each other, so if you get 3 swordtails, you need to get 1 male and 2 females. They are also social and do better in groups than solo.
For the bottom of the 10 gallon, a school of 4 or 5 cory cats would be cool. They are a small catfish that need to be in groups to be happy.
Good luck with your fish!
Neons, white cloud mountain minnows, harlequin rasboras, anything like that. Most tetras are easy to raise.
Anyone who has said goldfish is wrong. They require a 30 gallon tank because of the amount of waste they produce. Bettas are also easy, if you're looking for a cold water fish.
Don't get the ones you see floating on top of the tank at the store. I know they are easy to catch but they don't do much. I would make sure the ones you get can swim. Check for fins, I think they need fins.
blue neons, guppis, and the ones that suck algae of the tank. that makes the tank low maintenance and you will have an array of nicely coloured fish
First your tank needs to be set up and cycled. Then I would need to know how big it is before I could recommend any fish. You need to stock your tank based on tank size.
**
firstly you need to cycle the aquarium
we need to know the size of the aquarium
if your salt water i recommend a 6 line wrasse. those fish are the best!
any kind of community fish is easy. Community fish (such as the angle fish tetras or any that your local store has that looks cool to you) snails, African dwarf frogs, and Chinese algae eaters would make up a nice tank for beginners just make sure you don't over load your tank get a few at a time but if you get frogs they like to have friends so get at least two.
clown fish if you want if to last you about a year or maybe two
goldfish if you want one for 6 months
I had a fish I didn't like them they would just poop different colors when you were eating gross
Goldfish
:)
I have 6 and they are really easy. Just if you want to get more you can only get goldfish or they will eat each other and hurt each other.
goldfish. if they last you 6 months or more, try japanese fighting fish.
I hear yes and no's for a gsxr 750 being an ok beginner bike. What are your thoughts?
I have read many reviews and its about 50/50 between yes and no.I hear yes and no's for a gsxr 750 being an ok beginner bike. What are your thoughts?
All depends on you %26amp; your attitude. My first big bike was a sports 750 %26amp; I lived to tell the tale. It will only go as fast as you tell it to go, if you ride sensibly %26amp; know your own limitations you will be okay.
A 125cc bike is enough to get you killed if you allow it to, I've known people go straight from a 125 to a Ducati 916 %26amp; 1200 bandit, they lived.
I also knew a young guy from my days as an instructor, real nice bloke, got himself killed on the day he passed his test the first time he rode his GSXR 600.
Bikes don't kill people, they kill themselves, the bike just allows them to do it in a more spectacular fashion. Just remember that every bike is a potential widow maker %26amp; respect always respect it.I hear yes and no's for a gsxr 750 being an ok beginner bike. What are your thoughts?
The NO answers come from motorcyclists that have been around a number of years and know what they're talking about.
The YES answers are from SQUIDS who think motorcycling consists solely of wheelies, stoppies, and twisting the throttle.
Ask yourself this: could you get into the cockpit of an F-16 fighter jet RIGHT NOW and fly it safely? (No bonus points if you actually ARE in the Air Force!) That's the kind of learning curve you're gonna have on a Gixxer, and if you honestly think you can survive it then do what you like. It'll take you the rest of your life to figure it out, however long (or short) that might be.
But a GSX-R-anything is not a beginner bike, nor is any bike with an ';R'; in the title.
The fact that this question even exists scares me to hell... If ANYONE thinks that this is a good choice for a beginner, they are insane... Do yourself a favor and listen to 90% of these posts, especially the one about the SV650 reccomendation. That one makes A LOT of sense....
I'll have to admit, i'm impartial to Yamaha. And I had NEVER EVER rode a dirt bike, 4 wheeler or anything. And i started out with a Yamaha YZF-600R. It's a have 600cc sport bike. Looks alot like a R6. 750 maybe a bit big to start out on. But it is scary so you probably WON'T get to squirrely on it in the beginning. If you really like Suzuki, I recommend going for a gsxr-600 first. They are just as cool lookin and you'll have plenty of power. Get a feel for it and upgrade to the 750. Later on you can go for the gsxr 1000 or the hayabusa if you want, but in my opinion, you don't need a 1300cc sportsbike. It's too bulky. You get a Yamaha R1, which is a 1000cc. It's what I have now. It's great for handling, and speed. If you wanna do stunts yamaha has the best balance points for wheelies. Easy to find the balance point too.
no, no, no, no, no.
buy an SV650 and ride it until you burn through 2 sets of tires.
under no circumstances should you buy a modern superbike as your first ride. You will learn to use its power to get you out of bad situations and it will not make you a better rider. I like to call them point-and-shoot riders, great doing stand-up wheelies, but riding on tires with unscuffed edges.
get an appropriate bike and don't become a squid
I HAVE WORKED AT BIKE SHOPS FOR 7 YEARS AND BEEN RIDING FOR OVER 10. UNLESS YOUR EXTREMELY RESPONSIBLE OR TRUST YOURSELF ALOT IT IS NOT A GOOD FIRST BIKE. EVEN THOUGH IT IS ONLY A 750 IT STILL HAS TONS OF POWER, ESPECIALLY BOTTOM END SPEED. IF YOU CAN, LEARN ON A DIRT BIKE OR SOMETHING OF THAT CALIBER. I HAVE LOST TO MANY FRIENDS DOWN THIS VERY SAME ROAD. ANY OTHER QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS EMAIL ME. I'LL BE HAPPY TO HELP WITH THIS ONE.
Anyone who tells you that a 750 anything is a good beginner's bike is a fool. I've been riding since I was 9 yrs old. I'm 45 now. One of the reasons I'm still alive after all those years on a bike (and I average about 9000 miles a year) is because I didn't listen to idiots. There is a reason why the State Police use 175 -250 cc bikes when you sign up for their beginners bike course. It's because anything else will kill you if you make a simple mistake. You have to be out of you mind to get a bike that has more horsepower than many cars unless you have a few years experience. First, it's too heavy. You WILL drop it once or twice. You probably will twist the throttle when you drop it and all of a sudden 100 horses are dragging your scrawny butt across traffic and you die. Get the picture? I know there are guys out there who bought big bikes to start with and got lucky. But trust me, I have live friends and dead friends. The dead ones are the ones that turned themselves into dogfood getting cocky on a bike they had no respect for. The live ones, like me, can ride any bike ever made without a problem, unless of course you get blindsided by a car. And you may. I did, twice. Lots of broken bones. Ouch!Don't be dumb. Get a used 250, preferrably a street and trail to learn on. This way you wont ruin a new bike when you screw up several times. And you will. If your buddies laugh at you, they are not really your buddies. Give it at least a year. Take the bike safety course, then you can get a bigger bike. Use your head or lose you head. It's that simple.
it really depends. it's not a bad bike. not too big. a good amount of speed and acceleration though. i have a 2000 gsx 1300r and at 6'1';, 230 pounds, it's too much for me. 150 in third gear is incredible. my brother started out on a ninja 636 and he is fine.it's not quite as fast as your's. if you get out and familiarize yourself with the bike, you can do it! go to some empty lots in evenings and on weekends where you have adaquate space to ride and explore. good luck.
Not a bad beginner bike but a large bike. Large in the way of being wide and longer than other bikes out there. If you are a big guy then that will work well. I am 5'8'' and a GSXR is too wide for me. Yes I can ride it fine but stopping on a hill or something can leave you on your tiptoes. Another thing I would look into is insurance. On a 750 it can be costly depending on age. 600's now days have enough power anyway. Keep the rubber down and good luck.
Start out smaller. Take heed to what other posters hasve said about it NOT AT ALL being a good beginner bike. Sure, you could learn to ride on it, taking it easy over time, but seriously,
90% of riders take at least one tumble within the first few months of riding. Drop a brand new GSXR750 and you're gonna have some hefty repair bills to pay. Also, twist the throttle just a little too far and you're in very dangerous territory almost immediately. For someone who is inexperienced with motorcycles, suddenly having 120+bhp launching you forward like a space rocket is going to feel VERY scary, and if you panic, you will go down HARD.
Seriously, learn on a small bike until you're very confident with clutch control, gearing and engine speeds, powerbands, braking, leaning, etc.
It'll make you a better rider too.
I wouldn't buy this bike for a beginner bike. It is has a VERY powerful engine %26amp; brakes. If you don't know how to control your wrist (from twisting the throttle too much), you will be losing your liscence or your life with this choice.
Why would you even want to start on something that big? I really doubt you'll enjoy riding it for some time. You'd be much better off with an EX500 or GS500. You can learn the basics of riding without the fear of an overpowered bike. You can get comfortable with leaning a bike over and carrying speed. Once you're comfortable with that, move up to a 600 or 750.
I'm curious to know where you're hearing anyone say its a good beginner bike. Chances are, its someone who just started riding and hasn't fallen yet. Its just as important to check your sources when you're looking for opinions.
I've ridden nothing but sport bikes for 20+ years and nothing with a GSXR in front of it is a beginner bike. Start with some dirt bikes or if it has to be street, try the GS500 or Ninja 500 or 650 that were suggested before. You will be suprised at how quick these bikes are. They can all pretty much beat any cager off the line and will teach you how to be a better rider when you do move up.
depends. have you ever rode any motorcyle type vehicle. if not then i would say a bike around 500-650 cc is best. but suzuki's are badass, so i wouldn't mind if you got the 750. my buddy has the 1000 and its sweet. i have a yamaha R1 and would gladly trade him. it all comes down to personal preference i guess.
it's not the 750 part that worries me, but a gsxr is maybe a little much to start out with. an old cb750 may not be a bad choice. if you are looking for something a little newer, then maybe a 500 or so of any make should be more than enough. remember that you WILL drop the first bike you have, and hopefully it will be at walking speed. when you drop a bike like a gsxr, all that pretty plastic will easily and expensively be broken. i started on a cm200 Honda street bike and there were times that I'd have killed myself had i had a really fast bike because i would have been going faster, meaning less time to recover from a stupid move. i did find it small after a year and a half, so i moved up to a Honda CB750, then a Kawasaki kz1000, then a seriously modified version of the same. i have been riding for 20 years, never put a bike down at faster than walking speed. that's part luck and part having a bike that's a bit forgiving when you do something wrong. a gsxr is a pro level bike and you should be at least competent before trying a ';race'; bike. you didn't mention if you were a complete beginner, but i'm assuming you are. if so, then you can try out some bikes at a local bike school that are small and unintimidating to try out your skills before dropping your own bike that you have to live with.vegetable oil natural shampoo caption face creams
All depends on you %26amp; your attitude. My first big bike was a sports 750 %26amp; I lived to tell the tale. It will only go as fast as you tell it to go, if you ride sensibly %26amp; know your own limitations you will be okay.
A 125cc bike is enough to get you killed if you allow it to, I've known people go straight from a 125 to a Ducati 916 %26amp; 1200 bandit, they lived.
I also knew a young guy from my days as an instructor, real nice bloke, got himself killed on the day he passed his test the first time he rode his GSXR 600.
Bikes don't kill people, they kill themselves, the bike just allows them to do it in a more spectacular fashion. Just remember that every bike is a potential widow maker %26amp; respect always respect it.I hear yes and no's for a gsxr 750 being an ok beginner bike. What are your thoughts?
The NO answers come from motorcyclists that have been around a number of years and know what they're talking about.
The YES answers are from SQUIDS who think motorcycling consists solely of wheelies, stoppies, and twisting the throttle.
Ask yourself this: could you get into the cockpit of an F-16 fighter jet RIGHT NOW and fly it safely? (No bonus points if you actually ARE in the Air Force!) That's the kind of learning curve you're gonna have on a Gixxer, and if you honestly think you can survive it then do what you like. It'll take you the rest of your life to figure it out, however long (or short) that might be.
But a GSX-R-anything is not a beginner bike, nor is any bike with an ';R'; in the title.
The fact that this question even exists scares me to hell... If ANYONE thinks that this is a good choice for a beginner, they are insane... Do yourself a favor and listen to 90% of these posts, especially the one about the SV650 reccomendation. That one makes A LOT of sense....
I'll have to admit, i'm impartial to Yamaha. And I had NEVER EVER rode a dirt bike, 4 wheeler or anything. And i started out with a Yamaha YZF-600R. It's a have 600cc sport bike. Looks alot like a R6. 750 maybe a bit big to start out on. But it is scary so you probably WON'T get to squirrely on it in the beginning. If you really like Suzuki, I recommend going for a gsxr-600 first. They are just as cool lookin and you'll have plenty of power. Get a feel for it and upgrade to the 750. Later on you can go for the gsxr 1000 or the hayabusa if you want, but in my opinion, you don't need a 1300cc sportsbike. It's too bulky. You get a Yamaha R1, which is a 1000cc. It's what I have now. It's great for handling, and speed. If you wanna do stunts yamaha has the best balance points for wheelies. Easy to find the balance point too.
no, no, no, no, no.
buy an SV650 and ride it until you burn through 2 sets of tires.
under no circumstances should you buy a modern superbike as your first ride. You will learn to use its power to get you out of bad situations and it will not make you a better rider. I like to call them point-and-shoot riders, great doing stand-up wheelies, but riding on tires with unscuffed edges.
get an appropriate bike and don't become a squid
I HAVE WORKED AT BIKE SHOPS FOR 7 YEARS AND BEEN RIDING FOR OVER 10. UNLESS YOUR EXTREMELY RESPONSIBLE OR TRUST YOURSELF ALOT IT IS NOT A GOOD FIRST BIKE. EVEN THOUGH IT IS ONLY A 750 IT STILL HAS TONS OF POWER, ESPECIALLY BOTTOM END SPEED. IF YOU CAN, LEARN ON A DIRT BIKE OR SOMETHING OF THAT CALIBER. I HAVE LOST TO MANY FRIENDS DOWN THIS VERY SAME ROAD. ANY OTHER QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS EMAIL ME. I'LL BE HAPPY TO HELP WITH THIS ONE.
Anyone who tells you that a 750 anything is a good beginner's bike is a fool. I've been riding since I was 9 yrs old. I'm 45 now. One of the reasons I'm still alive after all those years on a bike (and I average about 9000 miles a year) is because I didn't listen to idiots. There is a reason why the State Police use 175 -250 cc bikes when you sign up for their beginners bike course. It's because anything else will kill you if you make a simple mistake. You have to be out of you mind to get a bike that has more horsepower than many cars unless you have a few years experience. First, it's too heavy. You WILL drop it once or twice. You probably will twist the throttle when you drop it and all of a sudden 100 horses are dragging your scrawny butt across traffic and you die. Get the picture? I know there are guys out there who bought big bikes to start with and got lucky. But trust me, I have live friends and dead friends. The dead ones are the ones that turned themselves into dogfood getting cocky on a bike they had no respect for. The live ones, like me, can ride any bike ever made without a problem, unless of course you get blindsided by a car. And you may. I did, twice. Lots of broken bones. Ouch!Don't be dumb. Get a used 250, preferrably a street and trail to learn on. This way you wont ruin a new bike when you screw up several times. And you will. If your buddies laugh at you, they are not really your buddies. Give it at least a year. Take the bike safety course, then you can get a bigger bike. Use your head or lose you head. It's that simple.
it really depends. it's not a bad bike. not too big. a good amount of speed and acceleration though. i have a 2000 gsx 1300r and at 6'1';, 230 pounds, it's too much for me. 150 in third gear is incredible. my brother started out on a ninja 636 and he is fine.it's not quite as fast as your's. if you get out and familiarize yourself with the bike, you can do it! go to some empty lots in evenings and on weekends where you have adaquate space to ride and explore. good luck.
Not a bad beginner bike but a large bike. Large in the way of being wide and longer than other bikes out there. If you are a big guy then that will work well. I am 5'8'' and a GSXR is too wide for me. Yes I can ride it fine but stopping on a hill or something can leave you on your tiptoes. Another thing I would look into is insurance. On a 750 it can be costly depending on age. 600's now days have enough power anyway. Keep the rubber down and good luck.
Start out smaller. Take heed to what other posters hasve said about it NOT AT ALL being a good beginner bike. Sure, you could learn to ride on it, taking it easy over time, but seriously,
90% of riders take at least one tumble within the first few months of riding. Drop a brand new GSXR750 and you're gonna have some hefty repair bills to pay. Also, twist the throttle just a little too far and you're in very dangerous territory almost immediately. For someone who is inexperienced with motorcycles, suddenly having 120+bhp launching you forward like a space rocket is going to feel VERY scary, and if you panic, you will go down HARD.
Seriously, learn on a small bike until you're very confident with clutch control, gearing and engine speeds, powerbands, braking, leaning, etc.
It'll make you a better rider too.
I wouldn't buy this bike for a beginner bike. It is has a VERY powerful engine %26amp; brakes. If you don't know how to control your wrist (from twisting the throttle too much), you will be losing your liscence or your life with this choice.
Why would you even want to start on something that big? I really doubt you'll enjoy riding it for some time. You'd be much better off with an EX500 or GS500. You can learn the basics of riding without the fear of an overpowered bike. You can get comfortable with leaning a bike over and carrying speed. Once you're comfortable with that, move up to a 600 or 750.
I'm curious to know where you're hearing anyone say its a good beginner bike. Chances are, its someone who just started riding and hasn't fallen yet. Its just as important to check your sources when you're looking for opinions.
I've ridden nothing but sport bikes for 20+ years and nothing with a GSXR in front of it is a beginner bike. Start with some dirt bikes or if it has to be street, try the GS500 or Ninja 500 or 650 that were suggested before. You will be suprised at how quick these bikes are. They can all pretty much beat any cager off the line and will teach you how to be a better rider when you do move up.
depends. have you ever rode any motorcyle type vehicle. if not then i would say a bike around 500-650 cc is best. but suzuki's are badass, so i wouldn't mind if you got the 750. my buddy has the 1000 and its sweet. i have a yamaha R1 and would gladly trade him. it all comes down to personal preference i guess.
it's not the 750 part that worries me, but a gsxr is maybe a little much to start out with. an old cb750 may not be a bad choice. if you are looking for something a little newer, then maybe a 500 or so of any make should be more than enough. remember that you WILL drop the first bike you have, and hopefully it will be at walking speed. when you drop a bike like a gsxr, all that pretty plastic will easily and expensively be broken. i started on a cm200 Honda street bike and there were times that I'd have killed myself had i had a really fast bike because i would have been going faster, meaning less time to recover from a stupid move. i did find it small after a year and a half, so i moved up to a Honda CB750, then a Kawasaki kz1000, then a seriously modified version of the same. i have been riding for 20 years, never put a bike down at faster than walking speed. that's part luck and part having a bike that's a bit forgiving when you do something wrong. a gsxr is a pro level bike and you should be at least competent before trying a ';race'; bike. you didn't mention if you were a complete beginner, but i'm assuming you are. if so, then you can try out some bikes at a local bike school that are small and unintimidating to try out your skills before dropping your own bike that you have to live with.
Which site is good for the beginner learning Visual Basic where I get all the basic concepts of VB?
Some of the sites are:
http://www.andreavb.com/
http://vb.mvps.org/hardweb/mckinney.htm
http://vbnet.mvps.org/index.html
Also take some time to visit MSDN online and post or simply follow others' questions and answers:
http://msdn.microsoft.com/newsgroups/default.aspx?dg=microsoft.public.vb.general.discussion%26amp;lang=en%26amp;cr=USWhich site is good for the beginner learning Visual Basic where I get all the basic concepts of VB?
hi
try this link
http://www.planetsourcecode.com/
http://vbgold.com
It will help u
Thanks
RoopeshWhich site is good for the beginner learning Visual Basic where I get all the basic concepts of VB?
http://www.universalteacher.com/
simple and best full book in order really good
I know a website which i started my Visual Basic programming as a beginner. It will help you too
http://www.freetutes.com/VisualBasic
sony
http://www.andreavb.com/
http://vb.mvps.org/hardweb/mckinney.htm
http://vbnet.mvps.org/index.html
Also take some time to visit MSDN online and post or simply follow others' questions and answers:
http://msdn.microsoft.com/newsgroups/default.aspx?dg=microsoft.public.vb.general.discussion%26amp;lang=en%26amp;cr=USWhich site is good for the beginner learning Visual Basic where I get all the basic concepts of VB?
hi
try this link
http://www.planetsourcecode.com/
http://vbgold.com
It will help u
Thanks
RoopeshWhich site is good for the beginner learning Visual Basic where I get all the basic concepts of VB?
http://www.universalteacher.com/
simple and best full book in order really good
I know a website which i started my Visual Basic programming as a beginner. It will help you too
http://www.freetutes.com/VisualBasic
sony
What shotgun and rifle should a beginner buy? Where should I buy them?
Get a shotgun first. There so many more things you can hunt with them. I would suggest a middle of the road 12 ga semi. The mp-153 is a good inexpensive gun. Was made in Russia by Baikal, now it's owned by Remington.What shotgun and rifle should a beginner buy? Where should I buy them?
Depends on what you are going to hunt. 20 ga for waterfowl and upland game. If you can handle a 12 ga then get one of those in a youth model. Winchester makes a youth model 1300 also works great for turkeys. As far as a high powered rifle, depends on you size. Most people start out with a .243 or a .270. Some states require a .30 cal or bigger, I would then go with the new Winchester 300 savage or a Remington .30-30. Happy huntingWhat shotgun and rifle should a beginner buy? Where should I buy them?
Well lets start out with the shotgun: if we are talking about 12ga. i would go with either a Mossberg 500 or a Remington Super Mag. they are both pump shotguns that will only run you about 150-200 bucks give or take, if you were gonna go with a 20ga. i have a Mossberg 500 20ga. that i enjoy very much.
Now for the rifle: it all depends on what you want if you want sompthin for plinking around (like shooting squirels for example) i would go with a Ruger 10-22, its just a 22 cal. rifle that you can mount a scope onto and have a little fun with. runs about 150 bucks
If you want somthin with a little more force go with a .17cal. rifle (i tend to use a savage .17) Its great for the Cyotes. rus about 200 bucks
Any Bigger you got your 30-06 which is a little bit extravagant for any smaller game but it deffinatly packs a punch and costs a little more too.
I would buy them from a retailer like a Gander Mtn., or a Cabelas. But definatly visit the store so you can put the gun up and see how you like it and if it is comfortable to you. oh maybe even a Bass Pro Shops would be a good place to look.
hope this helps
i would reccomend a mossberg 500 12 ga, not overly heavy shoots straight right out of the box and is just a great over all gun, dick's sporting goods, 189 bucks with three chokes, if you are a smaller framed person and it kicks too much for you, you can usually get a thicker recoil pad at the same place 10-20 bucks, as for a rifle, i got my first at 10 yrs, it was a remington bolt action 30-30 great gun, small for getting through the thick stuff and isn't an overly agressive kicker again ***** sporting goods, not sure on price
Depends on what you are going to hunt. 20 ga for waterfowl and upland game. If you can handle a 12 ga then get one of those in a youth model. Winchester makes a youth model 1300 also works great for turkeys. As far as a high powered rifle, depends on you size. Most people start out with a .243 or a .270. Some states require a .30 cal or bigger, I would then go with the new Winchester 300 savage or a Remington .30-30. Happy huntingWhat shotgun and rifle should a beginner buy? Where should I buy them?
Well lets start out with the shotgun: if we are talking about 12ga. i would go with either a Mossberg 500 or a Remington Super Mag. they are both pump shotguns that will only run you about 150-200 bucks give or take, if you were gonna go with a 20ga. i have a Mossberg 500 20ga. that i enjoy very much.
Now for the rifle: it all depends on what you want if you want sompthin for plinking around (like shooting squirels for example) i would go with a Ruger 10-22, its just a 22 cal. rifle that you can mount a scope onto and have a little fun with. runs about 150 bucks
If you want somthin with a little more force go with a .17cal. rifle (i tend to use a savage .17) Its great for the Cyotes. rus about 200 bucks
Any Bigger you got your 30-06 which is a little bit extravagant for any smaller game but it deffinatly packs a punch and costs a little more too.
I would buy them from a retailer like a Gander Mtn., or a Cabelas. But definatly visit the store so you can put the gun up and see how you like it and if it is comfortable to you. oh maybe even a Bass Pro Shops would be a good place to look.
hope this helps
i would reccomend a mossberg 500 12 ga, not overly heavy shoots straight right out of the box and is just a great over all gun, dick's sporting goods, 189 bucks with three chokes, if you are a smaller framed person and it kicks too much for you, you can usually get a thicker recoil pad at the same place 10-20 bucks, as for a rifle, i got my first at 10 yrs, it was a remington bolt action 30-30 great gun, small for getting through the thick stuff and isn't an overly agressive kicker again ***** sporting goods, not sure on price
Any advice for a beginner runner who hasn't ran in yrs?
I haven't ran in yrs not on a treadmill or outside. Right now i speed walk but i want to begin running, i've tried a few times but get really tired after a few feet. What can i do to gain strenght an not get tired so easy. my goal is to run 5 miles one day soonAny advice for a beginner runner who hasn't ran in yrs?
If your goal is to run 5 minutes soon. Then just jog very slowly whatever feels comfortable then gradually go faster for 5 minutes. Your getting tired because your going really fast. Also try to ignore the tired and pain because the more it hurts the better that means that your heart gets really strong. Once you can run 5 minutes then here are some workouts.
Monday- Jog 3 miles very slowly
Tuesday- 0.5 mile warm-up. Run 2 minutes as fast as you can 4-5 times with a 3:00 minute rest. 0.5 mile cool-down
Wednesday- Jog 3-4 miles very slowly
Thursday- Find a steep hill and run up it as fast as you can for 2 miles. Jog down the hill very slowly for recovery.
Friday- Jog 3 miles very slowly
Saturday- Jog 4-5 miles very slowly. Then at the end of the run do 6 build-ups
Sunday- REST. NO RUNNINGAny advice for a beginner runner who hasn't ran in yrs?
Richard has the right idea.
Try setting a goal of running a lamp post distance etc. while out on you normal walk. Slowly work at it introducing more runs like this in your walk until you are walking one post and jogging the next post. From here start jogging 2 lamp post etc until you build up to say running for 5 - 10 minutes and then 20 minutes and then you could probably get on to a proper training program.
You really need to push yourself, as with your walking you are reasonably fit. Running is harder, just focus on the goal of achieving a lamp post, and you need to start pushing yourself.
The next time you walk 5 miles, do run-walks.
This should help your body get used to the idea of running, plus you won't be psyching yourself out with a full running work out.
Build into it gradually.
If your goal is to run 5 minutes soon. Then just jog very slowly whatever feels comfortable then gradually go faster for 5 minutes. Your getting tired because your going really fast. Also try to ignore the tired and pain because the more it hurts the better that means that your heart gets really strong. Once you can run 5 minutes then here are some workouts.
Monday- Jog 3 miles very slowly
Tuesday- 0.5 mile warm-up. Run 2 minutes as fast as you can 4-5 times with a 3:00 minute rest. 0.5 mile cool-down
Wednesday- Jog 3-4 miles very slowly
Thursday- Find a steep hill and run up it as fast as you can for 2 miles. Jog down the hill very slowly for recovery.
Friday- Jog 3 miles very slowly
Saturday- Jog 4-5 miles very slowly. Then at the end of the run do 6 build-ups
Sunday- REST. NO RUNNINGAny advice for a beginner runner who hasn't ran in yrs?
Richard has the right idea.
Try setting a goal of running a lamp post distance etc. while out on you normal walk. Slowly work at it introducing more runs like this in your walk until you are walking one post and jogging the next post. From here start jogging 2 lamp post etc until you build up to say running for 5 - 10 minutes and then 20 minutes and then you could probably get on to a proper training program.
You really need to push yourself, as with your walking you are reasonably fit. Running is harder, just focus on the goal of achieving a lamp post, and you need to start pushing yourself.
The next time you walk 5 miles, do run-walks.
This should help your body get used to the idea of running, plus you won't be psyching yourself out with a full running work out.
Build into it gradually.
What is the best bass guitar pick for a beginner to use as well as any other needed equipment for a beginner?
A lot of bassists pick with their fingers.
Go to any music store, buy a handful of picks (they're cheap -- maybe $.25 each), then try them out and see which ones YOU like best.What is the best bass guitar pick for a beginner to use as well as any other needed equipment for a beginner?
Most bass players play with their fingers most of the time. Some always play with picks. It is best to know how to do both because they each give a distinctive tone and attack. Usually the pick is a hard guitar pick but they also make a felt pick for bass, but I haven't seen any of those for a long time.
Go to any music store, buy a handful of picks (they're cheap -- maybe $.25 each), then try them out and see which ones YOU like best.What is the best bass guitar pick for a beginner to use as well as any other needed equipment for a beginner?
Most bass players play with their fingers most of the time. Some always play with picks. It is best to know how to do both because they each give a distinctive tone and attack. Usually the pick is a hard guitar pick but they also make a felt pick for bass, but I haven't seen any of those for a long time.
What's a good beginner guitar package?
I've been looking at some and they seem pretty good but there are always complaints about the quality of the amp. Is there a good beginner package under $200 with a good amp? If not, then recommend whatever.What's a good beginner guitar package?
The Fender Squire Pack should be pretty good.What's a good beginner guitar package?
Yamaha F310. It's very popular in the UK.
It should be under $200.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yamaha-F310-Acou鈥?/a>
Fender Squire Pack would be a better option. The quality of the instrument is satisfying.
The Fender Squire Pack should be pretty good.What's a good beginner guitar package?
Yamaha F310. It's very popular in the UK.
It should be under $200.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yamaha-F310-Acou鈥?/a>
Fender Squire Pack would be a better option. The quality of the instrument is satisfying.
I need healthy simple recipes...no wild exotic stuff im a beginner veggie and healthy eater HELP!!?
INGREDIENTS
3 avocados - peeled, pitted, and mashed
1/4 cup onions, diced
1/4 teaspoon garlic salt
12 (6 inch) corn tortillas
1 bunch fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped
jalapeno pepper sauce, to taste
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C).
In a medium bowl, mix avocados, onions, and garlic salt.
Arrange corn tortillas in a single layer on a large baking sheet, and place in the preheated oven 2 to 5 minutes, until heated through.
Spread tortillas with the avocado mixture. Garnish with cilantro and sprinkle with jalapeno pepper sauce.
INGREDIENTS
1 (12 inch) pre-baked pizza crust
1/2 cup pesto
1 ripe tomato, chopped
1/2 cup green bell pepper, chopped
1 (2 ounce) can chopped black olives, drained
1/2 small red onion, chopped
1 (4 ounce) can artichoke hearts, drained and sliced
1 cup crumbled feta cheese
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C).
Spread pesto on pizza crust. Top with tomatoes, bell peppers, olives, red onions, artichoke hearts and feta cheese.
Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until cheese is melted and browned.I need healthy simple recipes...no wild exotic stuff im a beginner veggie and healthy eater HELP!!?
Curried Tofu, Mushroom and Pepper Scramble
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 large red pepper, cut into short, narrow strips
录 lb. sliced mushrooms
2 blocks firm tofu, 350 grams each well drained and crumbled
3 Tbsp. green onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp. curry powder
salt and black pepper to taste
1/2 cup ripe tomato, finely diced
1 Tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley or cilantro
In a large frying pan, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the pepper and mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally until tender. Increase the heat and cook, stirring until any liquid in the pan evaporates. Add the tofu, green onions, curry powder, salt and pepper. Reduce the heat and cook until heated through. Stir in the tomato and parsley or cilantro.
**************************************鈥?br>
Black Bean Burgers
1/2 onion, diced
1 can black beans
1/2 cup flour
2 slices bread, crumbled
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp onion powder
1/2 tsp seasoned salt
salt and pepper to taste
oil for frying
Sautee the onions till soft, about 3-5 minutes.
In a large bowl, mash the beans until almost smooth. Add sauteed onions and the rest of the ingredients, except the oil, adding the flour a few tablespoons at a time to combine well. Mixture will be thick.
Form bean mixture into patties, approximately 陆 inch thick and fry patties in a small amount of oil until slightly firm. Make veggie burgers and enjoy!I need healthy simple recipes...no wild exotic stuff im a beginner veggie and healthy eater HELP!!?
learn how to stirfry veggies:
http://vegetarian.about.com/od/cookingti鈥?/a>
Vegetable Stir Fry;
4 tsp oil
Cauliflower, and broccoli florets, bean sprouts,water chestnuts,red pepper strips,mangetout and baby corn.
Finely chopped garlic and ginger to taste.
Chinese five spice (optional)
Stir fry the vegetables, garlic ginger and five spice over a high het in the oil, season with soy sauce and serve with a med sized pitta bread.
Mixed Vegetable Casserole.
2lb fresh mixed vegetables. (e.g, carrots,broad and green beans)
2 tbsp oil or butter
6 small pickling onions, peeled
2 tomatoes chopped and skinned
1 green or red pepper seeded and thinly sliced
about 1/3 of a pint of vegetable stock
sal tand freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp white wine/or cider vinegar
Prepare the veg(peel top and tail) (or if you would prefer, you can buy bags of frozen veg from your supermarket in the freezer section.) Melt the oil in the heavy based pan, add the onions and fry gently for a few minutes. Add the vegetables and enough stock to just cover. add salt and pepper, and bring to the boil. Lower the heat, cover tightly and simmer for 20 mins. Stir in the wine or vinegar and cook until heated through.vegetable oil natural shampoo caption face creams
3 avocados - peeled, pitted, and mashed
1/4 cup onions, diced
1/4 teaspoon garlic salt
12 (6 inch) corn tortillas
1 bunch fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped
jalapeno pepper sauce, to taste
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C).
In a medium bowl, mix avocados, onions, and garlic salt.
Arrange corn tortillas in a single layer on a large baking sheet, and place in the preheated oven 2 to 5 minutes, until heated through.
Spread tortillas with the avocado mixture. Garnish with cilantro and sprinkle with jalapeno pepper sauce.
INGREDIENTS
1 (12 inch) pre-baked pizza crust
1/2 cup pesto
1 ripe tomato, chopped
1/2 cup green bell pepper, chopped
1 (2 ounce) can chopped black olives, drained
1/2 small red onion, chopped
1 (4 ounce) can artichoke hearts, drained and sliced
1 cup crumbled feta cheese
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C).
Spread pesto on pizza crust. Top with tomatoes, bell peppers, olives, red onions, artichoke hearts and feta cheese.
Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until cheese is melted and browned.I need healthy simple recipes...no wild exotic stuff im a beginner veggie and healthy eater HELP!!?
Curried Tofu, Mushroom and Pepper Scramble
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 large red pepper, cut into short, narrow strips
录 lb. sliced mushrooms
2 blocks firm tofu, 350 grams each well drained and crumbled
3 Tbsp. green onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp. curry powder
salt and black pepper to taste
1/2 cup ripe tomato, finely diced
1 Tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley or cilantro
In a large frying pan, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the pepper and mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally until tender. Increase the heat and cook, stirring until any liquid in the pan evaporates. Add the tofu, green onions, curry powder, salt and pepper. Reduce the heat and cook until heated through. Stir in the tomato and parsley or cilantro.
**************************************鈥?br>
Black Bean Burgers
1/2 onion, diced
1 can black beans
1/2 cup flour
2 slices bread, crumbled
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp onion powder
1/2 tsp seasoned salt
salt and pepper to taste
oil for frying
Sautee the onions till soft, about 3-5 minutes.
In a large bowl, mash the beans until almost smooth. Add sauteed onions and the rest of the ingredients, except the oil, adding the flour a few tablespoons at a time to combine well. Mixture will be thick.
Form bean mixture into patties, approximately 陆 inch thick and fry patties in a small amount of oil until slightly firm. Make veggie burgers and enjoy!I need healthy simple recipes...no wild exotic stuff im a beginner veggie and healthy eater HELP!!?
learn how to stirfry veggies:
http://vegetarian.about.com/od/cookingti鈥?/a>
Vegetable Stir Fry;
4 tsp oil
Cauliflower, and broccoli florets, bean sprouts,water chestnuts,red pepper strips,mangetout and baby corn.
Finely chopped garlic and ginger to taste.
Chinese five spice (optional)
Stir fry the vegetables, garlic ginger and five spice over a high het in the oil, season with soy sauce and serve with a med sized pitta bread.
Mixed Vegetable Casserole.
2lb fresh mixed vegetables. (e.g, carrots,broad and green beans)
2 tbsp oil or butter
6 small pickling onions, peeled
2 tomatoes chopped and skinned
1 green or red pepper seeded and thinly sliced
about 1/3 of a pint of vegetable stock
sal tand freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp white wine/or cider vinegar
Prepare the veg(peel top and tail) (or if you would prefer, you can buy bags of frozen veg from your supermarket in the freezer section.) Melt the oil in the heavy based pan, add the onions and fry gently for a few minutes. Add the vegetables and enough stock to just cover. add salt and pepper, and bring to the boil. Lower the heat, cover tightly and simmer for 20 mins. Stir in the wine or vinegar and cook until heated through.
Is there any internet site where people can go to improve their computer skills if they鈥檙e either beginner or-?
expert?Is there any internet site where people can go to improve their computer skills if they鈥檙e either beginner or-?
LOL well I';m so glad you asked that..
Do It Yourself Computing.com loves to help beginning computing folks, older, younger or in between and they don't make you feel like an idiot when you use the comments to ask aquestion..
The site has everything, from posts about internet shopping all the way up to buying a house online, or how to fix your speakers or make your graphics look better.Is there any internet site where people can go to improve their computer skills if they鈥檙e either beginner or-?
http://www.google.com/webhp
LOL well I';m so glad you asked that..
Do It Yourself Computing.com loves to help beginning computing folks, older, younger or in between and they don't make you feel like an idiot when you use the comments to ask aquestion..
The site has everything, from posts about internet shopping all the way up to buying a house online, or how to fix your speakers or make your graphics look better.Is there any internet site where people can go to improve their computer skills if they鈥檙e either beginner or-?
http://www.google.com/webhp
What is a great beginner gun?
what is a great beginner gun?
fun to shoot.
easy to maintain.
What is a great beginner gun?
That question can only be answered by you. There will be all sorts of recommendations presented but it will boil down to what feels comfortable in your hands. Revolver vs semi-automatic, 9 vs 40 vs 45.... the list goes on and on.
Go down to a gun store that rents and has a range, have a blast (literally). Only you can decide. What is a great beginner gun?
If you want to get good at it, go for the .22. Bolt action in a rifle. Revolver in a pistol. You're more likely to take the time to learn from each shot if it's not automatic. (Same with cameras. We learned better with press cameras where you had to load each sheet of film, one at a time.) It will be more fun if you get some expert instruction, because it's just more fun to be good at it.
Well below age 11 I would say a bb gun. If the kid is fairly responsible and understands that a gun is not a toy and can kill my opinion is a single shot 22 cal. whether it is bolt action, lever or pump . Bear in mind you do not give them free use anytime they want under adult supervision only ! They must know that a 22 can return to earth 1 mile away you must have a backstop to be safe.
I prefer revolvers, try a .357 magnum, you can fire both .357 magnum and .38 special rounds out of the same gun, and they come in large and small frames. Start w/ a smith and wesson 689. Firearms are lotta fun if you're safe.
either for a hand gun or a rifle, try a 22 to start with they do not have any kick,ammo is cheap, and you can pick one up fairly cheap, get good with it and move on up
If you mean self defense guns
Probably a pistol
Semi-automatics have some problems.
the kind that shoots out water, its safer
fun to shoot.
easy to maintain.
What is a great beginner gun?
That question can only be answered by you. There will be all sorts of recommendations presented but it will boil down to what feels comfortable in your hands. Revolver vs semi-automatic, 9 vs 40 vs 45.... the list goes on and on.
Go down to a gun store that rents and has a range, have a blast (literally). Only you can decide. What is a great beginner gun?
If you want to get good at it, go for the .22. Bolt action in a rifle. Revolver in a pistol. You're more likely to take the time to learn from each shot if it's not automatic. (Same with cameras. We learned better with press cameras where you had to load each sheet of film, one at a time.) It will be more fun if you get some expert instruction, because it's just more fun to be good at it.
Well below age 11 I would say a bb gun. If the kid is fairly responsible and understands that a gun is not a toy and can kill my opinion is a single shot 22 cal. whether it is bolt action, lever or pump . Bear in mind you do not give them free use anytime they want under adult supervision only ! They must know that a 22 can return to earth 1 mile away you must have a backstop to be safe.
I prefer revolvers, try a .357 magnum, you can fire both .357 magnum and .38 special rounds out of the same gun, and they come in large and small frames. Start w/ a smith and wesson 689. Firearms are lotta fun if you're safe.
either for a hand gun or a rifle, try a 22 to start with they do not have any kick,ammo is cheap, and you can pick one up fairly cheap, get good with it and move on up
If you mean self defense guns
Probably a pistol
Semi-automatics have some problems.
the kind that shoots out water, its safer
What is a good beginner's sportbike? 10 POINTS?
I am 6 feet tall and weigh approximately 210 pounds. What would be a good beginner sportbike purchase?What is a good beginner's sportbike? 10 POINTS?
Kawasaki Ninja EX500
Suzuki GS500
Enough power to move someone your size, but not so powerful it will kill you.
Good luck.What is a good beginner's sportbike? 10 POINTS?
kawa z750 - naked sports bike and my first bike. It has a fairly linear power delivery, is forgiving and easy to ride, but has a zingy rev happy sports engine and will go like the clappers. It's known as a ';naked sports bike';
Fazer 600 is another.
Slightly lower power are: -
sv650s, er6n, xj6, suzuki gladius etc.
If you want something smaller, I suggest a 250r ninja. But if you can get a bigger engined bike.
EX500 is the smallest i would get (a GS500 has about 17 less horsepower, and i find it unimpressive. my dad has one).
either of the popular 650cc twins would be good. Ninja 650R, or Suzuki SV650.
all great bikes. the 500 will be cheapest, BY FAR. but it will also look like it hasn't been restyled since 1994 (it hasn't).
Physically you can ride anything out there. However, sportbikes 600cc and up are very powerful and can be unforgiving to an untrained rider. My suggestion is to find a used 600cc or lower to learn on. Then sell it and buy whatever you like.
Depends on your age (maturity)
If you're under 21 GS500F / FZ6R.
Over 21 with a cool head any 600CC from the ';big 4';
A Buell.
if u have money u can get any bike.it depends on your budget.go for yamaha or ducati.
Kawasaki Ninja EX500
Suzuki GS500
Enough power to move someone your size, but not so powerful it will kill you.
Good luck.What is a good beginner's sportbike? 10 POINTS?
kawa z750 - naked sports bike and my first bike. It has a fairly linear power delivery, is forgiving and easy to ride, but has a zingy rev happy sports engine and will go like the clappers. It's known as a ';naked sports bike';
Fazer 600 is another.
Slightly lower power are: -
sv650s, er6n, xj6, suzuki gladius etc.
If you want something smaller, I suggest a 250r ninja. But if you can get a bigger engined bike.
EX500 is the smallest i would get (a GS500 has about 17 less horsepower, and i find it unimpressive. my dad has one).
either of the popular 650cc twins would be good. Ninja 650R, or Suzuki SV650.
all great bikes. the 500 will be cheapest, BY FAR. but it will also look like it hasn't been restyled since 1994 (it hasn't).
Physically you can ride anything out there. However, sportbikes 600cc and up are very powerful and can be unforgiving to an untrained rider. My suggestion is to find a used 600cc or lower to learn on. Then sell it and buy whatever you like.
Depends on your age (maturity)
If you're under 21 GS500F / FZ6R.
Over 21 with a cool head any 600CC from the ';big 4';
A Buell.
if u have money u can get any bike.it depends on your budget.go for yamaha or ducati.
How does a golf handicap affect each hole? i'm a beginner with an unofficial handicap of 38?
The only time it will effect each hole is when you play by holes. Let's say your playing a 36 handicap. You will get two strokes. Each hole has been rated 1 through 18. The 1 handicap hole is the hardest. You would get one stroke on the number 1 and 2 handicap hole.How does a golf handicap affect each hole? i'm a beginner with an unofficial handicap of 38?
Get your USGA golf handicap index and golf score tracker for free
http://www.ncgolfers.com/north-carolina/golf-handicap-index-tracker.php Report Abuse
How does a golf handicap affect each hole? i'm a beginner with an unofficial handicap of 38?
Well firstly Mens maximum handicap is usuall 28 with ladies being 36. Each hole has a ';Par'; attached to it which is the number of shots it should take you on that hole.
With 18 holes on the course this means that with a 28 handicapp on some holes you will recieve one free stroke and on the 10 hardest holes you will recieve 2 free strokes
Each hole also has a stroke index attached to it to show you on a scale of 1-18 which is the harder holes 1 being the hardest 18 being the easies. With a 28 handicap holes with a stroke index 1-10 will allow you 2 free shots.
If for instance you are on a par 4 hole with a stroke index of 3 and you take 6 shots you will score 6 gross 4 nett so you ave a nett par for your handicap
As you get better and put cards into the clubhouse your handicapp will go down and you will recieve less free shots ie my handicap is 14 so I now get only 14 free shots per round 1 shot on each of the 14 hardest holes
Hope this helps and good luck, I hope you enjoy the game
It's easy in that you get two stokes per hole plus an additional stroke on the two toughest holes (i.e., handicap 1 %26amp; 2) when measuring your score against par. The handicap is used for competition to place individuals in groups and also used for head-to-head or tournament play.
Let's say you are playing an opponent with a 22 handicap. Therefore you are awarded a stroke subtracted from your score for the first sixteen toughest holes. Usually at the top of the scorecard they have the holes handicapped.
It depends on the club you belong to as to how handicaps are computed (i.e., what it tops out at). Usually 28 is tops.
all depends on the type of game your playing, if you are playing in a medal at your club your handicap is taken off of your total round score, in stable-ford the holes have a different handicap (from 1 to 18, 1 being the hardest), firstly see how many 18`s you have in your handicap with 38 you have 2 and 2 shots left over, this means that on holes with a stroke index of 1 and 2 you will have 3 shots, and you will have 2 shots on all of the other 16 holes on the course, when scoring take your total strokes for the hole and take off your allowance this will give you a nett score, for instance if you shot a 7 on a stroke indexed par 4 you would take off your 3 shots to give you par and 2 points. hope this helps
If you mean on the scorecard where it says handicap, that means the difficulty of the whole. So the handicap of 1 on a whole would be the hardest hole.
Definition: ';Handicap'; refers to a numerical representation of a golfer's playing ability. The lower a golfer's handicap, the better the golfer is. A 2 handicapper is better than a 10 handicapper who is better than a 20 handicapper.
Handicaps are meant to represent a golfer's potential rather than simply be an average of a golfer's scores. For example, someone who averages 20-over-par likely won't have a handicap of 20; his handicap will likely be several strokes lower than 20 because of the way handicaps are calculated.
An official handicap - one that is established through the auspices of a USGA affiliated club - is called a ';handicap index.'; To establish a handicap index, a golfer needs a minimum of his five most recent scores, plus the course rating and slope rating of the courses played.
Once a handicap index is established, it is then used to determine a course handicap.
A course handicap tells a golfer how many strokes he is allowed to take on a specific golf course; that is, a course handicap of 14 means the golfer will be able to deduct 14 strokes from his score throughout the round.
Handicap indexes are used so that golfers of widely different playing abilities can compete fairly against one another.
handicaps only go up to 28
Greydays is right and has given a good explanation of how your handicap affects the calculation of your score at each hole, for strokeplay or stableford competitions.
All I can add is that in matchplay, the number of shots your opponent would give you is normally only a fraction (typically three-quarters) of the handicap difference. So if a handicap 28 player takes on a handicap 16 player, he only gets a shot advantage at the 9 hardest holes.
That's because a higher handicap golfer teds to be more inconsistent, and the handicap can give them too much advantage at the holes they play relatively well - the ones they play badly, they tend to lose by more than one shot.
Have a quick look at your players card. You need to be aiming to complete a hole in two over par or less for each hole. As you get better and your handicap gets less, aim for better scores. Good Luck.
I believe it is used against your overall round score rather than an individual hole...
as the guy before said, handicaps can only officially go up to 28, and the handicap is subtracted off your TOTAL score, not per hole.... with your handicip of 38 the maths dont even work out PER hole... you give yourself a 2.111111111 etc etc. handicap per hole?
Forget golf, learn darts, you need better maths skills
Get your USGA golf handicap index and golf score tracker for free
http://www.ncgolfers.com/north-carolina/golf-handicap-index-tracker.php Report Abuse
How does a golf handicap affect each hole? i'm a beginner with an unofficial handicap of 38?
Well firstly Mens maximum handicap is usuall 28 with ladies being 36. Each hole has a ';Par'; attached to it which is the number of shots it should take you on that hole.
With 18 holes on the course this means that with a 28 handicapp on some holes you will recieve one free stroke and on the 10 hardest holes you will recieve 2 free strokes
Each hole also has a stroke index attached to it to show you on a scale of 1-18 which is the harder holes 1 being the hardest 18 being the easies. With a 28 handicap holes with a stroke index 1-10 will allow you 2 free shots.
If for instance you are on a par 4 hole with a stroke index of 3 and you take 6 shots you will score 6 gross 4 nett so you ave a nett par for your handicap
As you get better and put cards into the clubhouse your handicapp will go down and you will recieve less free shots ie my handicap is 14 so I now get only 14 free shots per round 1 shot on each of the 14 hardest holes
Hope this helps and good luck, I hope you enjoy the game
It's easy in that you get two stokes per hole plus an additional stroke on the two toughest holes (i.e., handicap 1 %26amp; 2) when measuring your score against par. The handicap is used for competition to place individuals in groups and also used for head-to-head or tournament play.
Let's say you are playing an opponent with a 22 handicap. Therefore you are awarded a stroke subtracted from your score for the first sixteen toughest holes. Usually at the top of the scorecard they have the holes handicapped.
It depends on the club you belong to as to how handicaps are computed (i.e., what it tops out at). Usually 28 is tops.
all depends on the type of game your playing, if you are playing in a medal at your club your handicap is taken off of your total round score, in stable-ford the holes have a different handicap (from 1 to 18, 1 being the hardest), firstly see how many 18`s you have in your handicap with 38 you have 2 and 2 shots left over, this means that on holes with a stroke index of 1 and 2 you will have 3 shots, and you will have 2 shots on all of the other 16 holes on the course, when scoring take your total strokes for the hole and take off your allowance this will give you a nett score, for instance if you shot a 7 on a stroke indexed par 4 you would take off your 3 shots to give you par and 2 points. hope this helps
If you mean on the scorecard where it says handicap, that means the difficulty of the whole. So the handicap of 1 on a whole would be the hardest hole.
Definition: ';Handicap'; refers to a numerical representation of a golfer's playing ability. The lower a golfer's handicap, the better the golfer is. A 2 handicapper is better than a 10 handicapper who is better than a 20 handicapper.
Handicaps are meant to represent a golfer's potential rather than simply be an average of a golfer's scores. For example, someone who averages 20-over-par likely won't have a handicap of 20; his handicap will likely be several strokes lower than 20 because of the way handicaps are calculated.
An official handicap - one that is established through the auspices of a USGA affiliated club - is called a ';handicap index.'; To establish a handicap index, a golfer needs a minimum of his five most recent scores, plus the course rating and slope rating of the courses played.
Once a handicap index is established, it is then used to determine a course handicap.
A course handicap tells a golfer how many strokes he is allowed to take on a specific golf course; that is, a course handicap of 14 means the golfer will be able to deduct 14 strokes from his score throughout the round.
Handicap indexes are used so that golfers of widely different playing abilities can compete fairly against one another.
handicaps only go up to 28
Greydays is right and has given a good explanation of how your handicap affects the calculation of your score at each hole, for strokeplay or stableford competitions.
All I can add is that in matchplay, the number of shots your opponent would give you is normally only a fraction (typically three-quarters) of the handicap difference. So if a handicap 28 player takes on a handicap 16 player, he only gets a shot advantage at the 9 hardest holes.
That's because a higher handicap golfer teds to be more inconsistent, and the handicap can give them too much advantage at the holes they play relatively well - the ones they play badly, they tend to lose by more than one shot.
Have a quick look at your players card. You need to be aiming to complete a hole in two over par or less for each hole. As you get better and your handicap gets less, aim for better scores. Good Luck.
I believe it is used against your overall round score rather than an individual hole...
as the guy before said, handicaps can only officially go up to 28, and the handicap is subtracted off your TOTAL score, not per hole.... with your handicip of 38 the maths dont even work out PER hole... you give yourself a 2.111111111 etc etc. handicap per hole?
Forget golf, learn darts, you need better maths skills
What is a good beginner airsoft sniper rifle?
I am looking for a fps of more than 350 and electric but if there is a good spring please post it. and 30 or more clipWhat is a good beginner airsoft sniper rifle?
Electric sniper rifles is going to be tough to come by unless you plan on buying the SR-25:
http://www.airsoftpost.com/dboy-full-met鈥?/a>
Other then that the best beginner sniper rifle I can suggest is a JG Bar-10:
http://www.airsoftpost.com/bar10-vsr10-f鈥?/a>
This is a bolt-action sniper rifle capable of getting up to 120 ft. It is about 400 FPS with .2G BB's. It holds about 27 rounds in the clip which is more then enough. I own this gun and love it, and recommend it to anyone.
Electric sniper rifles is going to be tough to come by unless you plan on buying the SR-25:
http://www.airsoftpost.com/dboy-full-met鈥?/a>
Other then that the best beginner sniper rifle I can suggest is a JG Bar-10:
http://www.airsoftpost.com/bar10-vsr10-f鈥?/a>
This is a bolt-action sniper rifle capable of getting up to 120 ft. It is about 400 FPS with .2G BB's. It holds about 27 rounds in the clip which is more then enough. I own this gun and love it, and recommend it to anyone.
What is the best bass guitar pick for a beginner to use as well as any other needed equipment for a beginner?
A lot of bassists pick with their fingers.
Go to any music store, buy a handful of picks (they're cheap -- maybe $.25 each), then try them out and see which ones YOU like best.What is the best bass guitar pick for a beginner to use as well as any other needed equipment for a beginner?
Most bass players play with their fingers most of the time. Some always play with picks. It is best to know how to do both because they each give a distinctive tone and attack. Usually the pick is a hard guitar pick but they also make a felt pick for bass, but I haven't seen any of those for a long time.vegetable oil natural shampoo caption face creams
Go to any music store, buy a handful of picks (they're cheap -- maybe $.25 each), then try them out and see which ones YOU like best.What is the best bass guitar pick for a beginner to use as well as any other needed equipment for a beginner?
Most bass players play with their fingers most of the time. Some always play with picks. It is best to know how to do both because they each give a distinctive tone and attack. Usually the pick is a hard guitar pick but they also make a felt pick for bass, but I haven't seen any of those for a long time.
What's a good beginner guitar package?
I've been looking at some and they seem pretty good but there are always complaints about the quality of the amp. Is there a good beginner package under $200 with a good amp? If not, then recommend whatever.What's a good beginner guitar package?
The Fender Squire Pack should be pretty good.What's a good beginner guitar package?
Yamaha F310. It's very popular in the UK.
It should be under $200.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yamaha-F310-Acou鈥?/a>
Fender Squire Pack would be a better option. The quality of the instrument is satisfying.
The Fender Squire Pack should be pretty good.What's a good beginner guitar package?
Yamaha F310. It's very popular in the UK.
It should be under $200.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yamaha-F310-Acou鈥?/a>
Fender Squire Pack would be a better option. The quality of the instrument is satisfying.
I need healthy simple recipes...no wild exotic stuff im a beginner veggie and healthy eater HELP!!?
INGREDIENTS
3 avocados - peeled, pitted, and mashed
1/4 cup onions, diced
1/4 teaspoon garlic salt
12 (6 inch) corn tortillas
1 bunch fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped
jalapeno pepper sauce, to taste
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C).
In a medium bowl, mix avocados, onions, and garlic salt.
Arrange corn tortillas in a single layer on a large baking sheet, and place in the preheated oven 2 to 5 minutes, until heated through.
Spread tortillas with the avocado mixture. Garnish with cilantro and sprinkle with jalapeno pepper sauce.
INGREDIENTS
1 (12 inch) pre-baked pizza crust
1/2 cup pesto
1 ripe tomato, chopped
1/2 cup green bell pepper, chopped
1 (2 ounce) can chopped black olives, drained
1/2 small red onion, chopped
1 (4 ounce) can artichoke hearts, drained and sliced
1 cup crumbled feta cheese
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C).
Spread pesto on pizza crust. Top with tomatoes, bell peppers, olives, red onions, artichoke hearts and feta cheese.
Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until cheese is melted and browned.I need healthy simple recipes...no wild exotic stuff im a beginner veggie and healthy eater HELP!!?
Curried Tofu, Mushroom and Pepper Scramble
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 large red pepper, cut into short, narrow strips
录 lb. sliced mushrooms
2 blocks firm tofu, 350 grams each well drained and crumbled
3 Tbsp. green onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp. curry powder
salt and black pepper to taste
1/2 cup ripe tomato, finely diced
1 Tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley or cilantro
In a large frying pan, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the pepper and mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally until tender. Increase the heat and cook, stirring until any liquid in the pan evaporates. Add the tofu, green onions, curry powder, salt and pepper. Reduce the heat and cook until heated through. Stir in the tomato and parsley or cilantro.
**************************************鈥?br>
Black Bean Burgers
1/2 onion, diced
1 can black beans
1/2 cup flour
2 slices bread, crumbled
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp onion powder
1/2 tsp seasoned salt
salt and pepper to taste
oil for frying
Sautee the onions till soft, about 3-5 minutes.
In a large bowl, mash the beans until almost smooth. Add sauteed onions and the rest of the ingredients, except the oil, adding the flour a few tablespoons at a time to combine well. Mixture will be thick.
Form bean mixture into patties, approximately 陆 inch thick and fry patties in a small amount of oil until slightly firm. Make veggie burgers and enjoy!I need healthy simple recipes...no wild exotic stuff im a beginner veggie and healthy eater HELP!!?
learn how to stirfry veggies:
http://vegetarian.about.com/od/cookingti鈥?/a>
Vegetable Stir Fry;
4 tsp oil
Cauliflower, and broccoli florets, bean sprouts,water chestnuts,red pepper strips,mangetout and baby corn.
Finely chopped garlic and ginger to taste.
Chinese five spice (optional)
Stir fry the vegetables, garlic ginger and five spice over a high het in the oil, season with soy sauce and serve with a med sized pitta bread.
Mixed Vegetable Casserole.
2lb fresh mixed vegetables. (e.g, carrots,broad and green beans)
2 tbsp oil or butter
6 small pickling onions, peeled
2 tomatoes chopped and skinned
1 green or red pepper seeded and thinly sliced
about 1/3 of a pint of vegetable stock
sal tand freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp white wine/or cider vinegar
Prepare the veg(peel top and tail) (or if you would prefer, you can buy bags of frozen veg from your supermarket in the freezer section.) Melt the oil in the heavy based pan, add the onions and fry gently for a few minutes. Add the vegetables and enough stock to just cover. add salt and pepper, and bring to the boil. Lower the heat, cover tightly and simmer for 20 mins. Stir in the wine or vinegar and cook until heated through.
3 avocados - peeled, pitted, and mashed
1/4 cup onions, diced
1/4 teaspoon garlic salt
12 (6 inch) corn tortillas
1 bunch fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped
jalapeno pepper sauce, to taste
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 325 degrees F (165 degrees C).
In a medium bowl, mix avocados, onions, and garlic salt.
Arrange corn tortillas in a single layer on a large baking sheet, and place in the preheated oven 2 to 5 minutes, until heated through.
Spread tortillas with the avocado mixture. Garnish with cilantro and sprinkle with jalapeno pepper sauce.
INGREDIENTS
1 (12 inch) pre-baked pizza crust
1/2 cup pesto
1 ripe tomato, chopped
1/2 cup green bell pepper, chopped
1 (2 ounce) can chopped black olives, drained
1/2 small red onion, chopped
1 (4 ounce) can artichoke hearts, drained and sliced
1 cup crumbled feta cheese
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C).
Spread pesto on pizza crust. Top with tomatoes, bell peppers, olives, red onions, artichoke hearts and feta cheese.
Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, or until cheese is melted and browned.I need healthy simple recipes...no wild exotic stuff im a beginner veggie and healthy eater HELP!!?
Curried Tofu, Mushroom and Pepper Scramble
2 Tbsp. vegetable oil
1 large red pepper, cut into short, narrow strips
录 lb. sliced mushrooms
2 blocks firm tofu, 350 grams each well drained and crumbled
3 Tbsp. green onions, thinly sliced
1 tsp. curry powder
salt and black pepper to taste
1/2 cup ripe tomato, finely diced
1 Tbsp. coarsely chopped parsley or cilantro
In a large frying pan, heat the vegetable oil over medium heat. Add the pepper and mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally until tender. Increase the heat and cook, stirring until any liquid in the pan evaporates. Add the tofu, green onions, curry powder, salt and pepper. Reduce the heat and cook until heated through. Stir in the tomato and parsley or cilantro.
**************************************鈥?br>
Black Bean Burgers
1/2 onion, diced
1 can black beans
1/2 cup flour
2 slices bread, crumbled
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp onion powder
1/2 tsp seasoned salt
salt and pepper to taste
oil for frying
Sautee the onions till soft, about 3-5 minutes.
In a large bowl, mash the beans until almost smooth. Add sauteed onions and the rest of the ingredients, except the oil, adding the flour a few tablespoons at a time to combine well. Mixture will be thick.
Form bean mixture into patties, approximately 陆 inch thick and fry patties in a small amount of oil until slightly firm. Make veggie burgers and enjoy!I need healthy simple recipes...no wild exotic stuff im a beginner veggie and healthy eater HELP!!?
learn how to stirfry veggies:
http://vegetarian.about.com/od/cookingti鈥?/a>
Vegetable Stir Fry;
4 tsp oil
Cauliflower, and broccoli florets, bean sprouts,water chestnuts,red pepper strips,mangetout and baby corn.
Finely chopped garlic and ginger to taste.
Chinese five spice (optional)
Stir fry the vegetables, garlic ginger and five spice over a high het in the oil, season with soy sauce and serve with a med sized pitta bread.
Mixed Vegetable Casserole.
2lb fresh mixed vegetables. (e.g, carrots,broad and green beans)
2 tbsp oil or butter
6 small pickling onions, peeled
2 tomatoes chopped and skinned
1 green or red pepper seeded and thinly sliced
about 1/3 of a pint of vegetable stock
sal tand freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp white wine/or cider vinegar
Prepare the veg(peel top and tail) (or if you would prefer, you can buy bags of frozen veg from your supermarket in the freezer section.) Melt the oil in the heavy based pan, add the onions and fry gently for a few minutes. Add the vegetables and enough stock to just cover. add salt and pepper, and bring to the boil. Lower the heat, cover tightly and simmer for 20 mins. Stir in the wine or vinegar and cook until heated through.
Is there any internet site where people can go to improve their computer skills if they鈥檙e either beginner or-?
expert?Is there any internet site where people can go to improve their computer skills if they鈥檙e either beginner or-?
LOL well I';m so glad you asked that..
Do It Yourself Computing.com loves to help beginning computing folks, older, younger or in between and they don't make you feel like an idiot when you use the comments to ask aquestion..
The site has everything, from posts about internet shopping all the way up to buying a house online, or how to fix your speakers or make your graphics look better.Is there any internet site where people can go to improve their computer skills if they鈥檙e either beginner or-?
http://www.google.com/webhp
LOL well I';m so glad you asked that..
Do It Yourself Computing.com loves to help beginning computing folks, older, younger or in between and they don't make you feel like an idiot when you use the comments to ask aquestion..
The site has everything, from posts about internet shopping all the way up to buying a house online, or how to fix your speakers or make your graphics look better.Is there any internet site where people can go to improve their computer skills if they鈥檙e either beginner or-?
http://www.google.com/webhp
What is a great beginner gun?
what is a great beginner gun?
fun to shoot.
easy to maintain.
What is a great beginner gun?
That question can only be answered by you. There will be all sorts of recommendations presented but it will boil down to what feels comfortable in your hands. Revolver vs semi-automatic, 9 vs 40 vs 45.... the list goes on and on.
Go down to a gun store that rents and has a range, have a blast (literally). Only you can decide. What is a great beginner gun?
If you want to get good at it, go for the .22. Bolt action in a rifle. Revolver in a pistol. You're more likely to take the time to learn from each shot if it's not automatic. (Same with cameras. We learned better with press cameras where you had to load each sheet of film, one at a time.) It will be more fun if you get some expert instruction, because it's just more fun to be good at it.
Well below age 11 I would say a bb gun. If the kid is fairly responsible and understands that a gun is not a toy and can kill my opinion is a single shot 22 cal. whether it is bolt action, lever or pump . Bear in mind you do not give them free use anytime they want under adult supervision only ! They must know that a 22 can return to earth 1 mile away you must have a backstop to be safe.
I prefer revolvers, try a .357 magnum, you can fire both .357 magnum and .38 special rounds out of the same gun, and they come in large and small frames. Start w/ a smith and wesson 689. Firearms are lotta fun if you're safe.
either for a hand gun or a rifle, try a 22 to start with they do not have any kick,ammo is cheap, and you can pick one up fairly cheap, get good with it and move on up
If you mean self defense guns
Probably a pistol
Semi-automatics have some problems.
the kind that shoots out water, its safer
fun to shoot.
easy to maintain.
What is a great beginner gun?
That question can only be answered by you. There will be all sorts of recommendations presented but it will boil down to what feels comfortable in your hands. Revolver vs semi-automatic, 9 vs 40 vs 45.... the list goes on and on.
Go down to a gun store that rents and has a range, have a blast (literally). Only you can decide. What is a great beginner gun?
If you want to get good at it, go for the .22. Bolt action in a rifle. Revolver in a pistol. You're more likely to take the time to learn from each shot if it's not automatic. (Same with cameras. We learned better with press cameras where you had to load each sheet of film, one at a time.) It will be more fun if you get some expert instruction, because it's just more fun to be good at it.
Well below age 11 I would say a bb gun. If the kid is fairly responsible and understands that a gun is not a toy and can kill my opinion is a single shot 22 cal. whether it is bolt action, lever or pump . Bear in mind you do not give them free use anytime they want under adult supervision only ! They must know that a 22 can return to earth 1 mile away you must have a backstop to be safe.
I prefer revolvers, try a .357 magnum, you can fire both .357 magnum and .38 special rounds out of the same gun, and they come in large and small frames. Start w/ a smith and wesson 689. Firearms are lotta fun if you're safe.
either for a hand gun or a rifle, try a 22 to start with they do not have any kick,ammo is cheap, and you can pick one up fairly cheap, get good with it and move on up
If you mean self defense guns
Probably a pistol
Semi-automatics have some problems.
the kind that shoots out water, its safer
What is a good beginner's sportbike? 10 POINTS?
I am 6 feet tall and weigh approximately 210 pounds. What would be a good beginner sportbike purchase?What is a good beginner's sportbike? 10 POINTS?
Kawasaki Ninja EX500
Suzuki GS500
Enough power to move someone your size, but not so powerful it will kill you.
Good luck.What is a good beginner's sportbike? 10 POINTS?
kawa z750 - naked sports bike and my first bike. It has a fairly linear power delivery, is forgiving and easy to ride, but has a zingy rev happy sports engine and will go like the clappers. It's known as a ';naked sports bike';
Fazer 600 is another.
Slightly lower power are: -
sv650s, er6n, xj6, suzuki gladius etc.
If you want something smaller, I suggest a 250r ninja. But if you can get a bigger engined bike.
EX500 is the smallest i would get (a GS500 has about 17 less horsepower, and i find it unimpressive. my dad has one).
either of the popular 650cc twins would be good. Ninja 650R, or Suzuki SV650.
all great bikes. the 500 will be cheapest, BY FAR. but it will also look like it hasn't been restyled since 1994 (it hasn't).
Physically you can ride anything out there. However, sportbikes 600cc and up are very powerful and can be unforgiving to an untrained rider. My suggestion is to find a used 600cc or lower to learn on. Then sell it and buy whatever you like.
Depends on your age (maturity)
If you're under 21 GS500F / FZ6R.
Over 21 with a cool head any 600CC from the ';big 4';
A Buell.
if u have money u can get any bike.it depends on your budget.go for yamaha or ducati.
Kawasaki Ninja EX500
Suzuki GS500
Enough power to move someone your size, but not so powerful it will kill you.
Good luck.What is a good beginner's sportbike? 10 POINTS?
kawa z750 - naked sports bike and my first bike. It has a fairly linear power delivery, is forgiving and easy to ride, but has a zingy rev happy sports engine and will go like the clappers. It's known as a ';naked sports bike';
Fazer 600 is another.
Slightly lower power are: -
sv650s, er6n, xj6, suzuki gladius etc.
If you want something smaller, I suggest a 250r ninja. But if you can get a bigger engined bike.
EX500 is the smallest i would get (a GS500 has about 17 less horsepower, and i find it unimpressive. my dad has one).
either of the popular 650cc twins would be good. Ninja 650R, or Suzuki SV650.
all great bikes. the 500 will be cheapest, BY FAR. but it will also look like it hasn't been restyled since 1994 (it hasn't).
Physically you can ride anything out there. However, sportbikes 600cc and up are very powerful and can be unforgiving to an untrained rider. My suggestion is to find a used 600cc or lower to learn on. Then sell it and buy whatever you like.
Depends on your age (maturity)
If you're under 21 GS500F / FZ6R.
Over 21 with a cool head any 600CC from the ';big 4';
A Buell.
if u have money u can get any bike.it depends on your budget.go for yamaha or ducati.
Are you still a beginner at the guitar if you've been playing for over half a year?
i'm still a beginner, and i've been playing for 15 years. but that's just how i feel... pick a benchmark song you'd like to know how to play, and when you can play that, you won't be a beginner anymore!
mine's ';Never Going Back Again,'; by Fleetwood Mac.Are you still a beginner at the guitar if you've been playing for over half a year?
Is there a measure or time limit that define when a guitar player ';graduates'; from beginner to either intermediate or advance?
I have never heard of one.
Most professional musicians that I know or
heard-about ,never think that they have reached a point where there is no more for them to learn about their instruments.
I started classical guitar 2 1/2 years ago and
I consider myself (if I must choose a label)
a beginner even when I now can ';decently'; perform about 50% of the music in books for ';intermediate'; players.
Performing music is an art with a never ending road.
The great guitarist Andres Segovia (RIP) practiced for hours every day including scales. He never felt he has reached the end in learning the guitar.
Your goal is to seek inprovement in your skills not to worry about classifications or
';passing'; from the beginner stage as player.
As your skills improve with your practice and desire you will find more satisfaction in your playing.That's what is all about.
Enjoying yourself and little by little you will even surprise yourself about how much you have accomplish since you started.
Good Luck and EnjoyAre you still a beginner at the guitar if you've been playing for over half a year?
It all depends on the Grade you're on. If you want to know the level of playing you're at try getting some ';Rock School'; books if you play electric guitar (grades 1 - 8). I play classical guitar at Uni now and there's a variety of books to choose from for Classical guitar: LCM, Trinity, ABRSM etc. (all grades 1 - 8). These will really help you improve playing and allow you to identify what level of playing you're at.
Good luck and have fun playing - it's the most important part!
Truthfully, you SHOULDN'T be a beginner at 6 months if we're talking about constant practice. But if you don't put in the time, you won't be comfortable considering yourself a being past beginner skills. If you're the one learning guitar, what I can suggest is just keep at it, and listen to as much variety of songs as you can. Good luck!
Beginner is the level of music you're playing, not the amount of time you've logged. If you are able to play intermediate-level music, then no, you're not a beginner.
From what I have seen with some of the students who want me to teach them how to play the guitar... you probably couldn't pass my audition for prospective students... so I would class you as a beginner at only 6 months.
Depends how good you are
go to a musical shop
and get a level 2, 3 and 4 guitar booklet if you can play all of them you are not a begginer :D
x
It really all depends on how proficient you are. Guitar legend Ritchie Blackmore was a virtuoso after about a year or two.
no not really , providing you have advanced in playing , from first starting but just keep practicing
depends.
on what u can play
=]
i wouldnt consider u a beginner =]
keep working
depends on how you play and your overall music knowledge
Very much so.
depends on your talent and skill with any instrument.
but yeh under grade 3 is beginner so yeh you will be
depends what you can do, and how good you sound =]
sorry, it depends what you sound like!vegetable oil natural shampoo caption face creams
mine's ';Never Going Back Again,'; by Fleetwood Mac.Are you still a beginner at the guitar if you've been playing for over half a year?
Is there a measure or time limit that define when a guitar player ';graduates'; from beginner to either intermediate or advance?
I have never heard of one.
Most professional musicians that I know or
heard-about ,never think that they have reached a point where there is no more for them to learn about their instruments.
I started classical guitar 2 1/2 years ago and
I consider myself (if I must choose a label)
a beginner even when I now can ';decently'; perform about 50% of the music in books for ';intermediate'; players.
Performing music is an art with a never ending road.
The great guitarist Andres Segovia (RIP) practiced for hours every day including scales. He never felt he has reached the end in learning the guitar.
Your goal is to seek inprovement in your skills not to worry about classifications or
';passing'; from the beginner stage as player.
As your skills improve with your practice and desire you will find more satisfaction in your playing.That's what is all about.
Enjoying yourself and little by little you will even surprise yourself about how much you have accomplish since you started.
Good Luck and EnjoyAre you still a beginner at the guitar if you've been playing for over half a year?
It all depends on the Grade you're on. If you want to know the level of playing you're at try getting some ';Rock School'; books if you play electric guitar (grades 1 - 8). I play classical guitar at Uni now and there's a variety of books to choose from for Classical guitar: LCM, Trinity, ABRSM etc. (all grades 1 - 8). These will really help you improve playing and allow you to identify what level of playing you're at.
Good luck and have fun playing - it's the most important part!
Truthfully, you SHOULDN'T be a beginner at 6 months if we're talking about constant practice. But if you don't put in the time, you won't be comfortable considering yourself a being past beginner skills. If you're the one learning guitar, what I can suggest is just keep at it, and listen to as much variety of songs as you can. Good luck!
Beginner is the level of music you're playing, not the amount of time you've logged. If you are able to play intermediate-level music, then no, you're not a beginner.
From what I have seen with some of the students who want me to teach them how to play the guitar... you probably couldn't pass my audition for prospective students... so I would class you as a beginner at only 6 months.
Depends how good you are
go to a musical shop
and get a level 2, 3 and 4 guitar booklet if you can play all of them you are not a begginer :D
x
It really all depends on how proficient you are. Guitar legend Ritchie Blackmore was a virtuoso after about a year or two.
no not really , providing you have advanced in playing , from first starting but just keep practicing
depends.
on what u can play
=]
i wouldnt consider u a beginner =]
keep working
depends on how you play and your overall music knowledge
Very much so.
depends on your talent and skill with any instrument.
but yeh under grade 3 is beginner so yeh you will be
depends what you can do, and how good you sound =]
sorry, it depends what you sound like!
How does a golf handicap affect each hole? i'm a beginner with an unofficial handicap of 38?
The only time it will effect each hole is when you play by holes. Let's say your playing a 36 handicap. You will get two strokes. Each hole has been rated 1 through 18. The 1 handicap hole is the hardest. You would get one stroke on the number 1 and 2 handicap hole.How does a golf handicap affect each hole? i'm a beginner with an unofficial handicap of 38?
Get your USGA golf handicap index and golf score tracker for free
http://www.ncgolfers.com/north-carolina/golf-handicap-index-tracker.php Report Abuse
How does a golf handicap affect each hole? i'm a beginner with an unofficial handicap of 38?
Well firstly Mens maximum handicap is usuall 28 with ladies being 36. Each hole has a ';Par'; attached to it which is the number of shots it should take you on that hole.
With 18 holes on the course this means that with a 28 handicapp on some holes you will recieve one free stroke and on the 10 hardest holes you will recieve 2 free strokes
Each hole also has a stroke index attached to it to show you on a scale of 1-18 which is the harder holes 1 being the hardest 18 being the easies. With a 28 handicap holes with a stroke index 1-10 will allow you 2 free shots.
If for instance you are on a par 4 hole with a stroke index of 3 and you take 6 shots you will score 6 gross 4 nett so you ave a nett par for your handicap
As you get better and put cards into the clubhouse your handicapp will go down and you will recieve less free shots ie my handicap is 14 so I now get only 14 free shots per round 1 shot on each of the 14 hardest holes
Hope this helps and good luck, I hope you enjoy the game
It's easy in that you get two stokes per hole plus an additional stroke on the two toughest holes (i.e., handicap 1 %26amp; 2) when measuring your score against par. The handicap is used for competition to place individuals in groups and also used for head-to-head or tournament play.
Let's say you are playing an opponent with a 22 handicap. Therefore you are awarded a stroke subtracted from your score for the first sixteen toughest holes. Usually at the top of the scorecard they have the holes handicapped.
It depends on the club you belong to as to how handicaps are computed (i.e., what it tops out at). Usually 28 is tops.
all depends on the type of game your playing, if you are playing in a medal at your club your handicap is taken off of your total round score, in stable-ford the holes have a different handicap (from 1 to 18, 1 being the hardest), firstly see how many 18`s you have in your handicap with 38 you have 2 and 2 shots left over, this means that on holes with a stroke index of 1 and 2 you will have 3 shots, and you will have 2 shots on all of the other 16 holes on the course, when scoring take your total strokes for the hole and take off your allowance this will give you a nett score, for instance if you shot a 7 on a stroke indexed par 4 you would take off your 3 shots to give you par and 2 points. hope this helps
If you mean on the scorecard where it says handicap, that means the difficulty of the whole. So the handicap of 1 on a whole would be the hardest hole.
Definition: ';Handicap'; refers to a numerical representation of a golfer's playing ability. The lower a golfer's handicap, the better the golfer is. A 2 handicapper is better than a 10 handicapper who is better than a 20 handicapper.
Handicaps are meant to represent a golfer's potential rather than simply be an average of a golfer's scores. For example, someone who averages 20-over-par likely won't have a handicap of 20; his handicap will likely be several strokes lower than 20 because of the way handicaps are calculated.
An official handicap - one that is established through the auspices of a USGA affiliated club - is called a ';handicap index.'; To establish a handicap index, a golfer needs a minimum of his five most recent scores, plus the course rating and slope rating of the courses played.
Once a handicap index is established, it is then used to determine a course handicap.
A course handicap tells a golfer how many strokes he is allowed to take on a specific golf course; that is, a course handicap of 14 means the golfer will be able to deduct 14 strokes from his score throughout the round.
Handicap indexes are used so that golfers of widely different playing abilities can compete fairly against one another.
handicaps only go up to 28
Greydays is right and has given a good explanation of how your handicap affects the calculation of your score at each hole, for strokeplay or stableford competitions.
All I can add is that in matchplay, the number of shots your opponent would give you is normally only a fraction (typically three-quarters) of the handicap difference. So if a handicap 28 player takes on a handicap 16 player, he only gets a shot advantage at the 9 hardest holes.
That's because a higher handicap golfer teds to be more inconsistent, and the handicap can give them too much advantage at the holes they play relatively well - the ones they play badly, they tend to lose by more than one shot.
Have a quick look at your players card. You need to be aiming to complete a hole in two over par or less for each hole. As you get better and your handicap gets less, aim for better scores. Good Luck.
I believe it is used against your overall round score rather than an individual hole...
as the guy before said, handicaps can only officially go up to 28, and the handicap is subtracted off your TOTAL score, not per hole.... with your handicip of 38 the maths dont even work out PER hole... you give yourself a 2.111111111 etc etc. handicap per hole?
Forget golf, learn darts, you need better maths skills
Get your USGA golf handicap index and golf score tracker for free
http://www.ncgolfers.com/north-carolina/golf-handicap-index-tracker.php Report Abuse
How does a golf handicap affect each hole? i'm a beginner with an unofficial handicap of 38?
Well firstly Mens maximum handicap is usuall 28 with ladies being 36. Each hole has a ';Par'; attached to it which is the number of shots it should take you on that hole.
With 18 holes on the course this means that with a 28 handicapp on some holes you will recieve one free stroke and on the 10 hardest holes you will recieve 2 free strokes
Each hole also has a stroke index attached to it to show you on a scale of 1-18 which is the harder holes 1 being the hardest 18 being the easies. With a 28 handicap holes with a stroke index 1-10 will allow you 2 free shots.
If for instance you are on a par 4 hole with a stroke index of 3 and you take 6 shots you will score 6 gross 4 nett so you ave a nett par for your handicap
As you get better and put cards into the clubhouse your handicapp will go down and you will recieve less free shots ie my handicap is 14 so I now get only 14 free shots per round 1 shot on each of the 14 hardest holes
Hope this helps and good luck, I hope you enjoy the game
It's easy in that you get two stokes per hole plus an additional stroke on the two toughest holes (i.e., handicap 1 %26amp; 2) when measuring your score against par. The handicap is used for competition to place individuals in groups and also used for head-to-head or tournament play.
Let's say you are playing an opponent with a 22 handicap. Therefore you are awarded a stroke subtracted from your score for the first sixteen toughest holes. Usually at the top of the scorecard they have the holes handicapped.
It depends on the club you belong to as to how handicaps are computed (i.e., what it tops out at). Usually 28 is tops.
all depends on the type of game your playing, if you are playing in a medal at your club your handicap is taken off of your total round score, in stable-ford the holes have a different handicap (from 1 to 18, 1 being the hardest), firstly see how many 18`s you have in your handicap with 38 you have 2 and 2 shots left over, this means that on holes with a stroke index of 1 and 2 you will have 3 shots, and you will have 2 shots on all of the other 16 holes on the course, when scoring take your total strokes for the hole and take off your allowance this will give you a nett score, for instance if you shot a 7 on a stroke indexed par 4 you would take off your 3 shots to give you par and 2 points. hope this helps
If you mean on the scorecard where it says handicap, that means the difficulty of the whole. So the handicap of 1 on a whole would be the hardest hole.
Definition: ';Handicap'; refers to a numerical representation of a golfer's playing ability. The lower a golfer's handicap, the better the golfer is. A 2 handicapper is better than a 10 handicapper who is better than a 20 handicapper.
Handicaps are meant to represent a golfer's potential rather than simply be an average of a golfer's scores. For example, someone who averages 20-over-par likely won't have a handicap of 20; his handicap will likely be several strokes lower than 20 because of the way handicaps are calculated.
An official handicap - one that is established through the auspices of a USGA affiliated club - is called a ';handicap index.'; To establish a handicap index, a golfer needs a minimum of his five most recent scores, plus the course rating and slope rating of the courses played.
Once a handicap index is established, it is then used to determine a course handicap.
A course handicap tells a golfer how many strokes he is allowed to take on a specific golf course; that is, a course handicap of 14 means the golfer will be able to deduct 14 strokes from his score throughout the round.
Handicap indexes are used so that golfers of widely different playing abilities can compete fairly against one another.
handicaps only go up to 28
Greydays is right and has given a good explanation of how your handicap affects the calculation of your score at each hole, for strokeplay or stableford competitions.
All I can add is that in matchplay, the number of shots your opponent would give you is normally only a fraction (typically three-quarters) of the handicap difference. So if a handicap 28 player takes on a handicap 16 player, he only gets a shot advantage at the 9 hardest holes.
That's because a higher handicap golfer teds to be more inconsistent, and the handicap can give them too much advantage at the holes they play relatively well - the ones they play badly, they tend to lose by more than one shot.
Have a quick look at your players card. You need to be aiming to complete a hole in two over par or less for each hole. As you get better and your handicap gets less, aim for better scores. Good Luck.
I believe it is used against your overall round score rather than an individual hole...
as the guy before said, handicaps can only officially go up to 28, and the handicap is subtracted off your TOTAL score, not per hole.... with your handicip of 38 the maths dont even work out PER hole... you give yourself a 2.111111111 etc etc. handicap per hole?
Forget golf, learn darts, you need better maths skills
What is a good beginner airsoft sniper rifle?
I am looking for a fps of more than 350 and electric but if there is a good spring please post it. and 30 or more clipWhat is a good beginner airsoft sniper rifle?
Electric sniper rifles is going to be tough to come by unless you plan on buying the SR-25:
http://www.airsoftpost.com/dboy-full-met鈥?/a>
Other then that the best beginner sniper rifle I can suggest is a JG Bar-10:
http://www.airsoftpost.com/bar10-vsr10-f鈥?/a>
This is a bolt-action sniper rifle capable of getting up to 120 ft. It is about 400 FPS with .2G BB's. It holds about 27 rounds in the clip which is more then enough. I own this gun and love it, and recommend it to anyone.
Electric sniper rifles is going to be tough to come by unless you plan on buying the SR-25:
http://www.airsoftpost.com/dboy-full-met鈥?/a>
Other then that the best beginner sniper rifle I can suggest is a JG Bar-10:
http://www.airsoftpost.com/bar10-vsr10-f鈥?/a>
This is a bolt-action sniper rifle capable of getting up to 120 ft. It is about 400 FPS with .2G BB's. It holds about 27 rounds in the clip which is more then enough. I own this gun and love it, and recommend it to anyone.
Is a GSX-R 1000 sport bike too much for a beginner?
I have never driven a motorcycle. I am going to buy one when I get back from Iraq. I am about 6,2';, 230 lbs. I have been told that a 600 will be too small and after a few months of riding a 750 that i will want something faster. Any suggestions????Is a GSX-R 1000 sport bike too much for a beginner?
If you have never ridden a motorcycle, a 600 is plenty fast no matter how tall you are. If you purchase a 1000cc sport bike for you first bike you will most likley hurt yourself. Remember there is a big difference between a 1000cc sport bike and a 1000cc Harley. My first bike was and Yamaha R6, and I my last bike was an Aprilla RSV Factory 1000cc and both are very fast. Ride one first...GSXR 750 is also one of the fastest bike on the track...don't let the numbers fool you...any 600cc sport bike fast enough for a beginner...Is a GSX-R 1000 sport bike too much for a beginner?
sounds like you need to do some more research. YES its too much, dont be a statistic just cause you think you need to have the coolest bike or what your friends think is cool or whatever.
Yes.
Depends totally on your self control. A big guy like you I would recommend a Hayabusa. Now you twisting the throttle too much can get you in trouble in a hurry but under 6000 rpm this thing is tame as a kitten and smooth. Above that and its warp speed time. The size would be great for you.
That depends, Do you like rides in large vehicles with flashing lights and sirens? Do you like being pushed around on carts and have people wearing white and blue clothes stare at you? Do you miss bland food and IV's? Then by all means get the GSX-R1000. If not start on a sub 750cc bike.
Emphatically, yes! Start with something small (250 or 500) and work your way up as your skills progress. Even a 600 can be too much for a no0b.
For more info, please check out the New Rider Forums (see stickies up top)...
http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/new-rid鈥?/a>
Don't listen to people who say you will want something faster. Lots of people get used to the acceleration of a bike and say they have ';outgrown'; it, even though their skills on the bike are still very sub-par. There is much more to riding than going in a straight line.
well a big bike is a little easier to ride, in the fact that if you shift to soon the car behind you isn't going to run you over, but the bigger bike will feel akward, and the accidental release of the clutch too hard starting from a light on hill and good buy paint job.
Go with a used small bike, learn, learn, learn.
Then buy a big bike.
If you have never ridden a motorcycle, a 600 is plenty fast no matter how tall you are. If you purchase a 1000cc sport bike for you first bike you will most likley hurt yourself. Remember there is a big difference between a 1000cc sport bike and a 1000cc Harley. My first bike was and Yamaha R6, and I my last bike was an Aprilla RSV Factory 1000cc and both are very fast. Ride one first...GSXR 750 is also one of the fastest bike on the track...don't let the numbers fool you...any 600cc sport bike fast enough for a beginner...Is a GSX-R 1000 sport bike too much for a beginner?
sounds like you need to do some more research. YES its too much, dont be a statistic just cause you think you need to have the coolest bike or what your friends think is cool or whatever.
Yes.
Depends totally on your self control. A big guy like you I would recommend a Hayabusa. Now you twisting the throttle too much can get you in trouble in a hurry but under 6000 rpm this thing is tame as a kitten and smooth. Above that and its warp speed time. The size would be great for you.
That depends, Do you like rides in large vehicles with flashing lights and sirens? Do you like being pushed around on carts and have people wearing white and blue clothes stare at you? Do you miss bland food and IV's? Then by all means get the GSX-R1000. If not start on a sub 750cc bike.
Emphatically, yes! Start with something small (250 or 500) and work your way up as your skills progress. Even a 600 can be too much for a no0b.
For more info, please check out the New Rider Forums (see stickies up top)...
http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/new-rid鈥?/a>
Don't listen to people who say you will want something faster. Lots of people get used to the acceleration of a bike and say they have ';outgrown'; it, even though their skills on the bike are still very sub-par. There is much more to riding than going in a straight line.
well a big bike is a little easier to ride, in the fact that if you shift to soon the car behind you isn't going to run you over, but the bigger bike will feel akward, and the accidental release of the clutch too hard starting from a light on hill and good buy paint job.
Go with a used small bike, learn, learn, learn.
Then buy a big bike.
What is the best beginner's Paintball Gun under $150?
I've heard of things like Spyder Xtra or Spyder Victor...and Tippmann. Which marker is the most reliable that doesn't cost too much. I want one for Christmas so it would be great if I could get some ideas.What is the best beginner's Paintball Gun under $150?
Get yourself a Tippman 98 custom, A5, or Pro/Carbine. you can get each gun for under 150, but if you have to buy a mask, tank, paint, cleaning stuff too, it'll be over 150. try to get a package with everything in one. or buy everything used, in which case you can get a gun for 70, a mask for 10, a tank for maybe 20, and paint...well, you gotta buy paint new. used ones don't work too well :-)What is the best beginner's Paintball Gun under $150?
Spyders are good guns to start with, any of them really, although ones like the Xtra %26amp; Victor are just mechs, as in not electronic, as in they won't shoot as fast as say, the Electra, VS series or RS series, which cost more.
Tippmanns are good guns, too, just geared more towards woodsball players. They generally cost a little more than spyders. They're advertised as more durable than any other gun, and they may be at that, but it's more durable than it needs to be, as people shouldn't be doing crazy stuff with their paintball guns, anyway.
Both spyders %26amp; tippmanns have the advantage of being super easy on maintenance. Nearly all problems with either boil down to simply changing an o-ring or relubing the gun... even relubing is simple.
Totally agree with Nerdcore but here is one great deal if you act fast since the sale could end soon-
Spyder VS2 with Free Trinity Feedneck for $99 (regularly about $180)
http://www.ansgear.com/Spyder_VS2_Paintb鈥?/a>
Also, I think you can receives some additional freebies using coupon code XMAS75 at the first step of the shopping cart. Even with shipping you should be well under $150.
Update: Action Village is selling the stock Spyder VS2 (no upgrade feedneck) for $90.
http://www.actionvillage.com/010-214-004鈥?/a>
I would go with the Tippmann 98 Custom unless you want the Tippmann A5 which is $178. I had the Spyder Xtra, and it broke the first time i used it. And the Spyder Victor isn't reliable enough.
I hope this information helped you out.
My first paintball gun was the Icon X. its a great gun and you might have to adjust the velocity but its a great gun. i got a paintball mask, 2 16 ounce tanks for about 160$
Get yourself a Tippman 98 custom, A5, or Pro/Carbine. you can get each gun for under 150, but if you have to buy a mask, tank, paint, cleaning stuff too, it'll be over 150. try to get a package with everything in one. or buy everything used, in which case you can get a gun for 70, a mask for 10, a tank for maybe 20, and paint...well, you gotta buy paint new. used ones don't work too well :-)What is the best beginner's Paintball Gun under $150?
Spyders are good guns to start with, any of them really, although ones like the Xtra %26amp; Victor are just mechs, as in not electronic, as in they won't shoot as fast as say, the Electra, VS series or RS series, which cost more.
Tippmanns are good guns, too, just geared more towards woodsball players. They generally cost a little more than spyders. They're advertised as more durable than any other gun, and they may be at that, but it's more durable than it needs to be, as people shouldn't be doing crazy stuff with their paintball guns, anyway.
Both spyders %26amp; tippmanns have the advantage of being super easy on maintenance. Nearly all problems with either boil down to simply changing an o-ring or relubing the gun... even relubing is simple.
Totally agree with Nerdcore but here is one great deal if you act fast since the sale could end soon-
Spyder VS2 with Free Trinity Feedneck for $99 (regularly about $180)
http://www.ansgear.com/Spyder_VS2_Paintb鈥?/a>
Also, I think you can receives some additional freebies using coupon code XMAS75 at the first step of the shopping cart. Even with shipping you should be well under $150.
Update: Action Village is selling the stock Spyder VS2 (no upgrade feedneck) for $90.
http://www.actionvillage.com/010-214-004鈥?/a>
I would go with the Tippmann 98 Custom unless you want the Tippmann A5 which is $178. I had the Spyder Xtra, and it broke the first time i used it. And the Spyder Victor isn't reliable enough.
I hope this information helped you out.
My first paintball gun was the Icon X. its a great gun and you might have to adjust the velocity but its a great gun. i got a paintball mask, 2 16 ounce tanks for about 160$
I'm an English beginner. What's the difference of the three words: ';diminish';, ';decline'; ';wane';?
thank u!I'm an English beginner. What's the difference of the three words: ';diminish';, ';decline'; ';wane';?
The three words essentially mean the same thing in that there is something going down. Diminish typically refers to a supply of something that has gone down. Decline typically implies that there is a downward trend. And wane means that there is barely anything left, to grow close to the end.I'm an English beginner. What's the difference of the three words: ';diminish';, ';decline'; ';wane';?
They all basically mean to reduce or to lessen - depending on how you're using it in the sentence and what you're trying to say... some words work better in certain sentences than others, for example you wouldn't talk about a declining or diminishing moon, but a waning moon WOULD make sense.
Check a dictionary.
diminish means excuse
Decline is a change over time from previously efficient to inefficient organizational functioning
The three words essentially mean the same thing in that there is something going down. Diminish typically refers to a supply of something that has gone down. Decline typically implies that there is a downward trend. And wane means that there is barely anything left, to grow close to the end.I'm an English beginner. What's the difference of the three words: ';diminish';, ';decline'; ';wane';?
They all basically mean to reduce or to lessen - depending on how you're using it in the sentence and what you're trying to say... some words work better in certain sentences than others, for example you wouldn't talk about a declining or diminishing moon, but a waning moon WOULD make sense.
Check a dictionary.
diminish means excuse
Decline is a change over time from previously efficient to inefficient organizational functioning
What is a good beginner flute for $250 or under?
I'm a high school graduate who is going into studying music and I wanted to pick up the flute as my third instrument. I'm looking to buy a good beginner model. I was thinking about this one. http://www.wwbw.com/Barrington-Model-229SP-Student-Flute-463764-i1413084.wwbw
I have 250 dollars to work with. Thanks.What is a good beginner flute for $250 or under?
Barrington is TRASH. And I have little use Gemeinhardts, either. You want a GOOD brand - and at your price point, you should look at used flute. You can go to www.usedflutes.com and have your pick of previously-owned flutes - just stick with a GOOD BRAND.
You can browse around in www.fluteowrld.com - altho you will not FIND anything there in your range - just to see what they are selling, and to learn about models, etc. If you could fins something ike a Jupiter 611 use - you might hit your price point. Or an Emerson. Unless you KNOW what you are doing ( and you did consider a Barrington - need I say more?) stay off eBay - I have scored a LOT of good flutes there, but that is my major instrument, and I have been a teacher since 1971. The pawn shops that sell on eBay are f often my best source - you could look, but do not BUY unless you get expert advice.What is a good beginner flute for $250 or under?
I'm in 11th grade now and my flute is a Gemeinhardt. I got my flute through a music store and my parents payed a monthly fee of about $30 a month and it was payed off in about a year and a half.
I am a seventh grader and I play the flute. I have a used Yamaha and it works very well. I don't know how much they are but they are worth the money.vegetable oil natural shampoo caption face creams
I have 250 dollars to work with. Thanks.What is a good beginner flute for $250 or under?
Barrington is TRASH. And I have little use Gemeinhardts, either. You want a GOOD brand - and at your price point, you should look at used flute. You can go to www.usedflutes.com and have your pick of previously-owned flutes - just stick with a GOOD BRAND.
You can browse around in www.fluteowrld.com - altho you will not FIND anything there in your range - just to see what they are selling, and to learn about models, etc. If you could fins something ike a Jupiter 611 use - you might hit your price point. Or an Emerson. Unless you KNOW what you are doing ( and you did consider a Barrington - need I say more?) stay off eBay - I have scored a LOT of good flutes there, but that is my major instrument, and I have been a teacher since 1971. The pawn shops that sell on eBay are f often my best source - you could look, but do not BUY unless you get expert advice.What is a good beginner flute for $250 or under?
I'm in 11th grade now and my flute is a Gemeinhardt. I got my flute through a music store and my parents payed a monthly fee of about $30 a month and it was payed off in about a year and a half.
I am a seventh grader and I play the flute. I have a used Yamaha and it works very well. I don't know how much they are but they are worth the money.
Which bike would be the best/safest bike for a new beginner?
I've always wanted a motorcycle- but I have never ridden on one, nor drove one. So, basically I have no clue where to start looking and stuff. So any information concerning how to get the best information about trying to find a bike, riding it, fixing it, whats the safest, how to go about the motorcycle test (NYS)-Anything would be appriciated. I looked around on the web and the Suzuki Gs500 looks nice: I could see myself riding something like that. Maybe? %26gt;_%26lt;Which bike would be the best/safest bike for a new beginner?
I have been riding motorcycles for so many years; the 500 cc size you are looking for is just perfect to start.
1. My first advice is about safety. Remember safety first! Never ride a motorcycle without protective gear that includes a DOT approved helmet. Also read the rider鈥檚 manual is very important and there is a lot of safety stuff you need to know about it.
2. If you don鈥檛 have a friend who can teach you how to ride a motorcycle go to a motorcycle school to learn how to ride it. First you need to read the riders manual, go to the DMV to do your writing test, if you pass it they will issue a temporary permit, then you need to go to school to take the class and the school will test you at the end and the school will give you a paper so you can go to the DMV and get your motorcycle drivers license.
3. If you take your bike to a shop for repairs or service is a more expensive than fixing a car, motorcycle shops charges more per hour. If you know how to fix or service the motorcycle you will save yourself some money or you can ask your friends if they know how to fix motorcycles.
4. Now if you need to replace some cosmetic parts on the motorcycle there are a lot of junk yards you can get used stuff for your bike or you can get stuff on craig鈥檚 list or e bay for less.
You can email me at raul_azamar@yahoo.com if you have any questions about motorcycles. If you live on the state of Colorado I will be more than happy to teach you how to ride a bike is a lot of fun.
GOOD LUCK!!!!Which bike would be the best/safest bike for a new beginner?
soo
I ride a GS500 myself, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to most beginners. I've had it for the better part of a year and racked up about 4,000 miles on it. Most other 500 cc and under sport bikes are quite safe for beginners. (Note that a 600 has about double the horsepower of a 500 and is not exactly the safest starting place.)
I'd say to start with professional lessons. These are the quickest way past the ';I have no clue'; stage as they'll explain the basics of what every motorcyclist needs to know, and you'll be practicing for hours on a school bike. The office that issues your driver's license will have a list of who conducts these. I believe in New York passing the class will get you a license.
Besides 500 cc sport bikes, most other style bikes up to 650 cc are pretty good for beginners. It depends on what style of bike you like; the Suzuki GS500F and Savage 650; Kawasaki Ninja 250 / 500; Buell Blast; Honda Rebel 250, Nighthawk 250, and Shadow 600; Yamaha Virago 250 and V-Star 650 are all popular bikes for first time riders.
A few things to check for your first bike:
1. A reasonable amount of horsepower (around 50 to 60 or less, since these things only weigh a couple hundred pounds)
2. A light weight bike is easier to handle. A good rule of thumb here is that if it's light enough that you could pick it up if it falls over, you're a lot less likely to have it fall over.
3. Make sure the seat height is low enough that you can get both feet flat on the ground. If you're 5'2'; or shorter, you may have to settle for getting the balls of your toes on the ground, but don't settle if you're taller.
4. And be sure you're comfortable on it.
Last, don't forget to budget for gear. You'll need a comfortable DOT-approved helmet at the least, and I'd recommend the whole outfit: Boots, gloves, riding jacket, and riding pants, too.
i took the msf course in the beg it helps a LOT also insurance reduction anyhow if you like sport a ninja 300 or 500 depends on your body type or an sv 650, katanas, if you like harley types sorry thats not my cup of tea
I love riding my own bike.....it is complete freedom and I feel very liberated....
first thing you should do before you even buy one is take a Riders Safety Course....generally you can go to a DMV and they can recommend one....you might try smartriders.com I think they are nation wide...
most riders courses supply you with a bike for the course..I have a friend that has taken the course 3 times.....they finally told her....that she needed to stick to 4 wheels....
when you decide to buy...find ';your'; style and start from their...make sure you can hold it up and handle it well...I have Yamaha V-Star (650). I like the look of the cruiser. I'm 5'3'' and the v-star has a nice low center of gravity.....
Good luck....keep your knees in the breeze, shiny side up!
Read this. You will automatically, and instinctively make corrections to keep the bike upright, even the very first time you are on it. No one ever has to learn how to keep a bike upright. They need to learn how to turn (after learning how to use the clutch and throttle and brakes).
You have to suppress your instinct of keeping your balance in order to turn. This mental barrier is much easier to overcome on a bike that is lighter and cheaper. Also be aware that turning at very low speeds is extremely difficult. You have to go str8 a little bit and get rolling before you can turn, safely (unless you are daring, and very familiar with your bike's throttle response). This is different from a car. When you pull out the parking lot in your car, or turning at an intersection, you oftn are turning the wheel even before giving any gas. Once you can do a low speed figure eight in a parking lot, you have a good start. I suggest you idle around in second gear while doing this, or put your choke up in first, if you have one. Once you have %26lt;5 mph of steady speed, you can start learning to countersteer at low speed, easily. When you tighten your steering radius to the point you are hitting the steering lock during your corrective movements, you are well on your way to becoming an expert at low speed maneuvering and a safer rider. (sorry..the steering lock thing does not apply to some bikes, such as dirt bikes.)
I would suggest a Honda Rebel 250. Great looks, bulletproof and light and low enough to learn on. Face it, it probaly will fall over. You have to be able to pick it up. Once you get some experience move up to a 500 to 600 size. It's much much better to work your way up than to learn on a bigger vehicle where the learning curve is much steeper.
First find a local MSF (Motorcycle Safety Foundation) course and enroll in a beginners riding course. They usually supply the bike and the you should only need to take the written to get a license. After riding their bikes and talking to people you will know more of what you are comfortable on.
And listen to what Raul says!
While your size is a factor, a 500cc bike is way too big for a beginner - even a big man. In most countries it would be illegal. Britain has a 12 horsepower 125cc limit for learners, many other countries a 250cc limit.
While many people learn on larger bikes, they're unlikely ever to much of a rider as result.
Your first bike should be about learning - no matter what it is, in six months you'll know a whole lot ore about what you want in a bike, and be ready for something else, so resale value should be a major consideration.
Trail bikes are good to learn on - low geared, good leverage through the handlebars, and they tend to suffer little damage when dropped.
However, bike choice is only one aspect - Training and Gear are probably more important - get a good helmet, boots, gloves %26amp; jacket - pants with knee %26amp; hip armour are also a really good idea.
I am a female and my husband just bought me a 1981 Hondamatic. Its a 400 and its automatic. great to learn on and I love it. Hard to find though
I have been riding motorcycles for so many years; the 500 cc size you are looking for is just perfect to start.
1. My first advice is about safety. Remember safety first! Never ride a motorcycle without protective gear that includes a DOT approved helmet. Also read the rider鈥檚 manual is very important and there is a lot of safety stuff you need to know about it.
2. If you don鈥檛 have a friend who can teach you how to ride a motorcycle go to a motorcycle school to learn how to ride it. First you need to read the riders manual, go to the DMV to do your writing test, if you pass it they will issue a temporary permit, then you need to go to school to take the class and the school will test you at the end and the school will give you a paper so you can go to the DMV and get your motorcycle drivers license.
3. If you take your bike to a shop for repairs or service is a more expensive than fixing a car, motorcycle shops charges more per hour. If you know how to fix or service the motorcycle you will save yourself some money or you can ask your friends if they know how to fix motorcycles.
4. Now if you need to replace some cosmetic parts on the motorcycle there are a lot of junk yards you can get used stuff for your bike or you can get stuff on craig鈥檚 list or e bay for less.
You can email me at raul_azamar@yahoo.com if you have any questions about motorcycles. If you live on the state of Colorado I will be more than happy to teach you how to ride a bike is a lot of fun.
GOOD LUCK!!!!Which bike would be the best/safest bike for a new beginner?
soo
I ride a GS500 myself, and wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to most beginners. I've had it for the better part of a year and racked up about 4,000 miles on it. Most other 500 cc and under sport bikes are quite safe for beginners. (Note that a 600 has about double the horsepower of a 500 and is not exactly the safest starting place.)
I'd say to start with professional lessons. These are the quickest way past the ';I have no clue'; stage as they'll explain the basics of what every motorcyclist needs to know, and you'll be practicing for hours on a school bike. The office that issues your driver's license will have a list of who conducts these. I believe in New York passing the class will get you a license.
Besides 500 cc sport bikes, most other style bikes up to 650 cc are pretty good for beginners. It depends on what style of bike you like; the Suzuki GS500F and Savage 650; Kawasaki Ninja 250 / 500; Buell Blast; Honda Rebel 250, Nighthawk 250, and Shadow 600; Yamaha Virago 250 and V-Star 650 are all popular bikes for first time riders.
A few things to check for your first bike:
1. A reasonable amount of horsepower (around 50 to 60 or less, since these things only weigh a couple hundred pounds)
2. A light weight bike is easier to handle. A good rule of thumb here is that if it's light enough that you could pick it up if it falls over, you're a lot less likely to have it fall over.
3. Make sure the seat height is low enough that you can get both feet flat on the ground. If you're 5'2'; or shorter, you may have to settle for getting the balls of your toes on the ground, but don't settle if you're taller.
4. And be sure you're comfortable on it.
Last, don't forget to budget for gear. You'll need a comfortable DOT-approved helmet at the least, and I'd recommend the whole outfit: Boots, gloves, riding jacket, and riding pants, too.
i took the msf course in the beg it helps a LOT also insurance reduction anyhow if you like sport a ninja 300 or 500 depends on your body type or an sv 650, katanas, if you like harley types sorry thats not my cup of tea
I love riding my own bike.....it is complete freedom and I feel very liberated....
first thing you should do before you even buy one is take a Riders Safety Course....generally you can go to a DMV and they can recommend one....you might try smartriders.com I think they are nation wide...
most riders courses supply you with a bike for the course..I have a friend that has taken the course 3 times.....they finally told her....that she needed to stick to 4 wheels....
when you decide to buy...find ';your'; style and start from their...make sure you can hold it up and handle it well...I have Yamaha V-Star (650). I like the look of the cruiser. I'm 5'3'' and the v-star has a nice low center of gravity.....
Good luck....keep your knees in the breeze, shiny side up!
Read this. You will automatically, and instinctively make corrections to keep the bike upright, even the very first time you are on it. No one ever has to learn how to keep a bike upright. They need to learn how to turn (after learning how to use the clutch and throttle and brakes).
You have to suppress your instinct of keeping your balance in order to turn. This mental barrier is much easier to overcome on a bike that is lighter and cheaper. Also be aware that turning at very low speeds is extremely difficult. You have to go str8 a little bit and get rolling before you can turn, safely (unless you are daring, and very familiar with your bike's throttle response). This is different from a car. When you pull out the parking lot in your car, or turning at an intersection, you oftn are turning the wheel even before giving any gas. Once you can do a low speed figure eight in a parking lot, you have a good start. I suggest you idle around in second gear while doing this, or put your choke up in first, if you have one. Once you have %26lt;5 mph of steady speed, you can start learning to countersteer at low speed, easily. When you tighten your steering radius to the point you are hitting the steering lock during your corrective movements, you are well on your way to becoming an expert at low speed maneuvering and a safer rider. (sorry..the steering lock thing does not apply to some bikes, such as dirt bikes.)
I would suggest a Honda Rebel 250. Great looks, bulletproof and light and low enough to learn on. Face it, it probaly will fall over. You have to be able to pick it up. Once you get some experience move up to a 500 to 600 size. It's much much better to work your way up than to learn on a bigger vehicle where the learning curve is much steeper.
First find a local MSF (Motorcycle Safety Foundation) course and enroll in a beginners riding course. They usually supply the bike and the you should only need to take the written to get a license. After riding their bikes and talking to people you will know more of what you are comfortable on.
And listen to what Raul says!
While your size is a factor, a 500cc bike is way too big for a beginner - even a big man. In most countries it would be illegal. Britain has a 12 horsepower 125cc limit for learners, many other countries a 250cc limit.
While many people learn on larger bikes, they're unlikely ever to much of a rider as result.
Your first bike should be about learning - no matter what it is, in six months you'll know a whole lot ore about what you want in a bike, and be ready for something else, so resale value should be a major consideration.
Trail bikes are good to learn on - low geared, good leverage through the handlebars, and they tend to suffer little damage when dropped.
However, bike choice is only one aspect - Training and Gear are probably more important - get a good helmet, boots, gloves %26amp; jacket - pants with knee %26amp; hip armour are also a really good idea.
I am a female and my husband just bought me a 1981 Hondamatic. Its a 400 and its automatic. great to learn on and I love it. Hard to find though
Does anyone know a site that has downloadable dress patterns for beginner sewers?
www.etsy.com is a site that sells everything handmade. They also sell supplies and vintage. I know they have various patterns. Go on their site and search 'easy pattern' or 'beginner pattern' that should work. You have to pay whatever they ask and they send you the pattern to your email, then just download. Good luck and have fun.Does anyone know a site that has downloadable dress patterns for beginner sewers?
No...but type that into google...(dress patterns/beginners or something)!
GOOD LUCK!
No...but type that into google...(dress patterns/beginners or something)!
GOOD LUCK!
I鈥檓 a goldfish beginner 鈥?please advise?
I bought 2 baby fantail fish and one of them died 2 days later. I am now left with one. I bought them from a reputable shop from a big tank of about 30. Should I replace the dead one with another or leave him be by himself? He seems happy, hungry and lively enough, but does for about 5-10 mins a day settle and sit at the bottom of my fish tank at home. Thanks!!!
I鈥檓 a goldfish beginner 鈥?please advise?
I'd buy a new fish. I had to do this too. I think he just couldn't stand the journey home, got stressed and died. Just plop it in with your old one. Fish do like having friends. I recently added 2 more goldfish to my aquarium and they get on really well... :)
All this stuff about tank cycling (IMO) is rubbish. I just made sure the tank was clean before I filled it with water, added a few drops of water safe and off I went. Gold fish are very hardy creatures.
(I know a lot of people are now going to hate me and call me a fish abuser but I have had goldfish for over 13 years!)I鈥檓 a goldfish beginner 鈥?please advise?
Hi Poopsy. First of all, you need to get a big tank for goldfish, they are really messy fish who need lots of space. So try to buy the biggest tank you can afford - looking at around 20 gallons minimum for a happy fish.
Secondly, did you buy the fish and the tank on the same day? You need to make sure you have a filter - this filters the water to get rid of all the nasties that the fish produce. If you don't have a filter, they are basically swimming in their wee and poo all day. When the filter is running, there are good bacteria growing in it to help get rid of the toxins - this takes are 3 weeks for enough to grow to cope with the fish. Ideally you would run this in an tank with no fish until ready, but if this isn't possibly you need to change some of the water each day (about a jugfull) which will help a lot. Also make sure you dechlorinate your water before you add it to the tank - this removes the chlorine in tap water which is also harmful for your fish.
why dont we adress the reason as to why it died BEFORE you add more fish. was the tank properly cycled before adding the fish? trust me, its a beginners mistake. done it myself. the tank has to be cycled for a month before you can put any fish in.
Fish generally dont care about whether they are alone or in a group in such small spaces as fish tanks. However, Fantail fish do look much better when they arent in a tank alone so purely for aesthetic reasons I would say replace the dead one- and even add more!
Buy new one beacause i have had 2 fantails that have died in the past any the one buy himself looked bored so i got a new one and he was really happy!
I hope my advice helped =]
fish dont mind being on there own unless they are shoaling fish which goldfish arent... so its whether or not you want 2 or 1.. so yh its up to you! HAve fun!
^^)
get a good filter,
get some of the water drops that make the water 7 PH Netural,
get all that stuff,
feed them once aday
thats it
it seems that you don't have a large tank enough. You did not specify your tank size!!!!
I鈥檓 a goldfish beginner 鈥?please advise?
I'd buy a new fish. I had to do this too. I think he just couldn't stand the journey home, got stressed and died. Just plop it in with your old one. Fish do like having friends. I recently added 2 more goldfish to my aquarium and they get on really well... :)
All this stuff about tank cycling (IMO) is rubbish. I just made sure the tank was clean before I filled it with water, added a few drops of water safe and off I went. Gold fish are very hardy creatures.
(I know a lot of people are now going to hate me and call me a fish abuser but I have had goldfish for over 13 years!)I鈥檓 a goldfish beginner 鈥?please advise?
Hi Poopsy. First of all, you need to get a big tank for goldfish, they are really messy fish who need lots of space. So try to buy the biggest tank you can afford - looking at around 20 gallons minimum for a happy fish.
Secondly, did you buy the fish and the tank on the same day? You need to make sure you have a filter - this filters the water to get rid of all the nasties that the fish produce. If you don't have a filter, they are basically swimming in their wee and poo all day. When the filter is running, there are good bacteria growing in it to help get rid of the toxins - this takes are 3 weeks for enough to grow to cope with the fish. Ideally you would run this in an tank with no fish until ready, but if this isn't possibly you need to change some of the water each day (about a jugfull) which will help a lot. Also make sure you dechlorinate your water before you add it to the tank - this removes the chlorine in tap water which is also harmful for your fish.
why dont we adress the reason as to why it died BEFORE you add more fish. was the tank properly cycled before adding the fish? trust me, its a beginners mistake. done it myself. the tank has to be cycled for a month before you can put any fish in.
Fish generally dont care about whether they are alone or in a group in such small spaces as fish tanks. However, Fantail fish do look much better when they arent in a tank alone so purely for aesthetic reasons I would say replace the dead one- and even add more!
Buy new one beacause i have had 2 fantails that have died in the past any the one buy himself looked bored so i got a new one and he was really happy!
I hope my advice helped =]
fish dont mind being on there own unless they are shoaling fish which goldfish arent... so its whether or not you want 2 or 1.. so yh its up to you! HAve fun!
^^)
get a good filter,
get some of the water drops that make the water 7 PH Netural,
get all that stuff,
feed them once aday
thats it
it seems that you don't have a large tank enough. You did not specify your tank size!!!!
What is the best beginner Serger machine with cover stitch to purchase? ?
i want a machine that will last throughout my hobbies and yet not be crazy expensive...im looking for experienced users of singer, janome, babylock, brother, and bernina brands...when i contact dealers, they always say their machines are the best...im not ready to just trust their opinion...and looking online for product reviews has turned up little to nothing...What is the best beginner Serger machine with cover stitch to purchase? ?
You will need to go and see the machines and decide for yourself, everybody says the one they own or sell is the best. Be different, go visit the sewing machine store and ask for a demonstration. Try going to a multi brand dealer, so they may have more experience in the different brands. I've used the babylock Evolve- which is VERY good, the Pfaff and Elna, which are up there too, and the brother, which doesnt to bad a job :). I've seen the singer, and not a fan- too hard to use. I liked the Pfaff 4862, it is a serger/coverstitch. There is an Elna very similar- these stitch beautifully. Like i said, you will only know for yourself which is the best for you. Take advantage of getting a demonstration. You will feel better.What is the best beginner Serger machine with cover stitch to purchase? ?
Juki and Elna do a machine that will do both overlocking and a cover stitch but it is very time consuming swapping over and price wise there's not a lot of difference to buy 2 different machines. A combi would cost approx 拢500. I would personally advise you to get seperate machines as they do have reliability issues too. I can't speak for other dealers, but they should be offering you the chance to try before you buy and you should make your own mind up with no pressure. I would, however, advise you not to buy one from the internet unless you've tried it in a shop first. Not sure this answers your question but hope I've helped a little!
I have a White, which is a lower end Viking. It has held up with me for over 10 years. Make sure to buy it at a sewing machine dealer. You will need lessons on how to use the machine. I was just at one and surprised by the good prices on sergers. Make sure you get a four thread serger.
You will need to go and see the machines and decide for yourself, everybody says the one they own or sell is the best. Be different, go visit the sewing machine store and ask for a demonstration. Try going to a multi brand dealer, so they may have more experience in the different brands. I've used the babylock Evolve- which is VERY good, the Pfaff and Elna, which are up there too, and the brother, which doesnt to bad a job :). I've seen the singer, and not a fan- too hard to use. I liked the Pfaff 4862, it is a serger/coverstitch. There is an Elna very similar- these stitch beautifully. Like i said, you will only know for yourself which is the best for you. Take advantage of getting a demonstration. You will feel better.What is the best beginner Serger machine with cover stitch to purchase? ?
Juki and Elna do a machine that will do both overlocking and a cover stitch but it is very time consuming swapping over and price wise there's not a lot of difference to buy 2 different machines. A combi would cost approx 拢500. I would personally advise you to get seperate machines as they do have reliability issues too. I can't speak for other dealers, but they should be offering you the chance to try before you buy and you should make your own mind up with no pressure. I would, however, advise you not to buy one from the internet unless you've tried it in a shop first. Not sure this answers your question but hope I've helped a little!
I have a White, which is a lower end Viking. It has held up with me for over 10 years. Make sure to buy it at a sewing machine dealer. You will need lessons on how to use the machine. I was just at one and surprised by the good prices on sergers. Make sure you get a four thread serger.
PIANO: Can a complete beginner learn Moonlight Sonata Mvt 1?
For my own reasons, this is really the only piece I want to be able to play... at least for a long time.
Would I simply fail if I tried to learn it without any other prior knowledge? (can't even read music). If not, how long do you guess it would take?
Basically, what is the quickest way I could learn to play Beethoven's Moonlught Sonata, Movement 1?PIANO: Can a complete beginner learn Moonlight Sonata Mvt 1?
The ';Moonlight Sonata'; 1st movement was the first piece I learned to play. I purchased the sheet music and a recording. I did know how to read the notes on the G cleft from my dismal attempt to play the violin, however the F cleft was a mystery.
My sister lived two houses down from my house and she had a record player, so I would listen to the recording trying to follow it with the sheet music, then quickly run home and try to find on the piano the notes I heard in my head and relate them to the notes on the F cleft.
This took several weeks and endless hours but I did learn the 1st movement. I wish I would have recorded myself playing it back then. I would very much like to hear how well I did play it. I have been blessed with a very good ear, not everyone would be able to it as I did. That was over fifty years ago.
I do not recommend this approach. Get a teacher, learn to read music then work your way up to it. It will still be there when you are ready to tackle it.
One of the problems is the 1st movement is more than two pages long. I have seen so many wannabe pianist struggle with the first two pages and never get to the other remaining pages.
As you get more into classical piano works, you will find that once you accomplish a goal like playing the 1st movemnet, there will be another piece you will want to get started on and so it goes on and on. You will not be satisfied just playing the one piece.
Don't try to do it on your own, Learn the piano properly and when you are ready, the piece will be a piece of cake (German Chocolate). My favorite.PIANO: Can a complete beginner learn Moonlight Sonata Mvt 1?
There is no way you can learn the Moonlight Sonata 1st movement in 2-3 days (as another responder says), without any prior experience! You will need to learn how to read music, and be able to play the parts of EACH hand - which are often, not doing the same thing at the same time, to put it simply.
There is no ';I just want to learn this ONE piece'; in the study of an instrument. You learn to play the INSTRUMENT - and then you learn to play that piece. This is like asking ';I do not want to get physically fit - I just want to learn how to pitch ONE major league baseball game.';
This is not a reality show, where things are made to look like instant miracles.
I began taking piano lessons at age 40, and it was quite a humbling experience. I wanted to play the ';easier'; pieces by Bach, Mozart and Beethoven--but it took years before I could even begin to do justice to any of these pieces.
But after two years of lessons I tackled the first movement of the ';Moonlight.'; I worked away at it very diligently, and after a few weeks, much to my delight, I had the whole thing memorized. I could play it through note-perfect. But then I did something that took all the glow off of my glorious achievement: I listened to my old recording of Rudolf Serkin playing the piece. After ten seconds of listening I realized that I had only learned to play the notes--there was no music in my pitiful rendition.
So, can YOU learn to play this piece? Sure! You probably can learn to play the notes perfectly if you work away at it for a couple of months. But to bring it to life as a piece of MUSIC will take a long, long time.
It's going to be rather difficult if you have no prior knowledge or musical background. To be honest even if you do manage to somehow learn all the notes, with your level of expertise you'll be playing it just to get by. There is more to music than just merely learning the notes. Moonlight Sonata is not a very technically demanding piece, however making it sound good is a whole other story.
I can't read music either. I learned it all by ear as a beginner. *smiles* Then of course not everyone has ';the ear'; but it took me around a month or so of intent listening. But the quickest way is to learn to read, I still can't, and for my own reasons I do not want to. Though, I HIGHLY recommend that you do- to learn it quicker.
-Ryko
yes, practice, my friend learned that in less 2 months, but he has no constant practice, if you're really good in less 2-3 days, you can master that, i can play Sonata in c major by clementi, and everyone was dazzled ahaha!!!
I whole-heartedly agree with mamianka. I've been playing the guitar for eleven years. There is so much more to playing any instrument than just learning a song. Find a teacher, learn to play the piano. there is no way around it.
Sure, if you try REALLY HARD. :-)
Heres the sheet music to get you started.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/10857299/Moonl鈥?/a>
A complete beginner can learn anything...it'll just take you a lot more practice.
By rote at first, and i hope you have a great ear!
Would I simply fail if I tried to learn it without any other prior knowledge? (can't even read music). If not, how long do you guess it would take?
Basically, what is the quickest way I could learn to play Beethoven's Moonlught Sonata, Movement 1?PIANO: Can a complete beginner learn Moonlight Sonata Mvt 1?
The ';Moonlight Sonata'; 1st movement was the first piece I learned to play. I purchased the sheet music and a recording. I did know how to read the notes on the G cleft from my dismal attempt to play the violin, however the F cleft was a mystery.
My sister lived two houses down from my house and she had a record player, so I would listen to the recording trying to follow it with the sheet music, then quickly run home and try to find on the piano the notes I heard in my head and relate them to the notes on the F cleft.
This took several weeks and endless hours but I did learn the 1st movement. I wish I would have recorded myself playing it back then. I would very much like to hear how well I did play it. I have been blessed with a very good ear, not everyone would be able to it as I did. That was over fifty years ago.
I do not recommend this approach. Get a teacher, learn to read music then work your way up to it. It will still be there when you are ready to tackle it.
One of the problems is the 1st movement is more than two pages long. I have seen so many wannabe pianist struggle with the first two pages and never get to the other remaining pages.
As you get more into classical piano works, you will find that once you accomplish a goal like playing the 1st movemnet, there will be another piece you will want to get started on and so it goes on and on. You will not be satisfied just playing the one piece.
Don't try to do it on your own, Learn the piano properly and when you are ready, the piece will be a piece of cake (German Chocolate). My favorite.PIANO: Can a complete beginner learn Moonlight Sonata Mvt 1?
There is no way you can learn the Moonlight Sonata 1st movement in 2-3 days (as another responder says), without any prior experience! You will need to learn how to read music, and be able to play the parts of EACH hand - which are often, not doing the same thing at the same time, to put it simply.
There is no ';I just want to learn this ONE piece'; in the study of an instrument. You learn to play the INSTRUMENT - and then you learn to play that piece. This is like asking ';I do not want to get physically fit - I just want to learn how to pitch ONE major league baseball game.';
This is not a reality show, where things are made to look like instant miracles.
I began taking piano lessons at age 40, and it was quite a humbling experience. I wanted to play the ';easier'; pieces by Bach, Mozart and Beethoven--but it took years before I could even begin to do justice to any of these pieces.
But after two years of lessons I tackled the first movement of the ';Moonlight.'; I worked away at it very diligently, and after a few weeks, much to my delight, I had the whole thing memorized. I could play it through note-perfect. But then I did something that took all the glow off of my glorious achievement: I listened to my old recording of Rudolf Serkin playing the piece. After ten seconds of listening I realized that I had only learned to play the notes--there was no music in my pitiful rendition.
So, can YOU learn to play this piece? Sure! You probably can learn to play the notes perfectly if you work away at it for a couple of months. But to bring it to life as a piece of MUSIC will take a long, long time.
It's going to be rather difficult if you have no prior knowledge or musical background. To be honest even if you do manage to somehow learn all the notes, with your level of expertise you'll be playing it just to get by. There is more to music than just merely learning the notes. Moonlight Sonata is not a very technically demanding piece, however making it sound good is a whole other story.
I can't read music either. I learned it all by ear as a beginner. *smiles* Then of course not everyone has ';the ear'; but it took me around a month or so of intent listening. But the quickest way is to learn to read, I still can't, and for my own reasons I do not want to. Though, I HIGHLY recommend that you do- to learn it quicker.
-Ryko
yes, practice, my friend learned that in less 2 months, but he has no constant practice, if you're really good in less 2-3 days, you can master that, i can play Sonata in c major by clementi, and everyone was dazzled ahaha!!!
I whole-heartedly agree with mamianka. I've been playing the guitar for eleven years. There is so much more to playing any instrument than just learning a song. Find a teacher, learn to play the piano. there is no way around it.
Sure, if you try REALLY HARD. :-)
Heres the sheet music to get you started.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/10857299/Moonl鈥?/a>
A complete beginner can learn anything...it'll just take you a lot more practice.
By rote at first, and i hope you have a great ear!
How do you give beginner skaters the courage to ollie there first couple of stairs?
Well theres some people that just need for other people to do it. Do it first, show them that even if you can't ollie that high that if you get speed you can even just ride off it. You usually don't even have to manual. Or even some people feel more confident if their wearing gear. Get them some gear. If that doesn't work I don't know.How do you give beginner skaters the courage to ollie there first couple of stairs?
well, start him off on a curb, then a 2 stair, and work your way up, and it might help by doing the stairs with him, and show him the exact right time when to ollie..
when i was a noob at skating my friend did this for me and now i do this for other people, to help them out..
:)
then eventually work up to kickflips off themHow do you give beginner skaters the courage to ollie there first couple of stairs?
I suppose you would show them how to by doing it yourself and reward the bravest one with a physical show of friendliness, like a high five and a ';good job!';, depending on if you are trying to place a positive influence, or have a certain way they see you. I don't skate, but, rewarding people can bring about more effort
when i first tried to ollie stairs, the thought of looking like a pussy if i didnt do it pretty much gave me the courage to do it, lol
i also find it easier to start small, on something like a 3 stair or 4 stair.
A bike or football helmet, knee pads, shoulder pads, a cup, a cheep egg crate mattress at the bottom of the stairs and 911 programed into your cell phone. Good luck!
make him do it if he doent do it threatin to beat him up.
pay em a reasonable amount of moneyvegetable oil natural shampoo caption face creams
well, start him off on a curb, then a 2 stair, and work your way up, and it might help by doing the stairs with him, and show him the exact right time when to ollie..
when i was a noob at skating my friend did this for me and now i do this for other people, to help them out..
:)
then eventually work up to kickflips off themHow do you give beginner skaters the courage to ollie there first couple of stairs?
I suppose you would show them how to by doing it yourself and reward the bravest one with a physical show of friendliness, like a high five and a ';good job!';, depending on if you are trying to place a positive influence, or have a certain way they see you. I don't skate, but, rewarding people can bring about more effort
when i first tried to ollie stairs, the thought of looking like a pussy if i didnt do it pretty much gave me the courage to do it, lol
i also find it easier to start small, on something like a 3 stair or 4 stair.
A bike or football helmet, knee pads, shoulder pads, a cup, a cheep egg crate mattress at the bottom of the stairs and 911 programed into your cell phone. Good luck!
make him do it if he doent do it threatin to beat him up.
pay em a reasonable amount of money
How do I overclock my NVIDIA GeForce 7300 (For a Complete Beginner)?
1. Read this article carefully:
http://www.guru3d.com/article/article/44鈥?/a>
2. Download and install RivaTuner:
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Use at your own risk.
http://www.guru3d.com/article/article/44鈥?/a>
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How Do I Teach Beginner Trombone?
Im 14 and have been playing for 5 years, and am one of the better players in my band and i would like to teach beginner trombone lessons, how should i start and how fast should i move ex.?How Do I Teach Beginner Trombone?
To teach %26lt;insert instrument here%26gt;:
for anything that requires time to learn. just remember your questions you had when you were starting and emphasize those when your teaching. encourage your students by telling them how well they are doing. id say teach as fast as you learned for a start, but slow down/speed up depending on how quickly they pick up your lessons.
make sure they practice when your not teaching. they will feel more inclined to practice more if when u compliment them on how quickly they are learning after you left them for a week. you don't need to keep saying it, just for the first few lessons.
don't teach every day, once a week will suffice, depending on both of your schedules. try and develop lesson plans, where at the end of the practice you will have taught %26lt;whatever it is you were trying to teach%26gt;.
To teach %26lt;insert instrument here%26gt;:
for anything that requires time to learn. just remember your questions you had when you were starting and emphasize those when your teaching. encourage your students by telling them how well they are doing. id say teach as fast as you learned for a start, but slow down/speed up depending on how quickly they pick up your lessons.
make sure they practice when your not teaching. they will feel more inclined to practice more if when u compliment them on how quickly they are learning after you left them for a week. you don't need to keep saying it, just for the first few lessons.
don't teach every day, once a week will suffice, depending on both of your schedules. try and develop lesson plans, where at the end of the practice you will have taught %26lt;whatever it is you were trying to teach%26gt;.
North Lake Tahoe accommodations + beginner lessons - suggestions needed?
Hello,
This is my first time to Tahoe. I need information on North Lake Tahoe accommodations + beginner lessons - suggestions needed around Dec 23 - 25 or Dec 28 - Dec 31 for just 2 or 3 nights. We will be going in a group of 4 - 6 people. I heard that if you buy a package which includes Ski lessons plus stay, it turns out a bit cheaper. Any suggestions on this? I heard that Northstar and Squaw Valley are the best. Is this true?North Lake Tahoe accommodations + beginner lessons - suggestions needed?
Kings beach is good, as is a few other places that I can mention but dont remember, also try Truckee, it is not far from there and there is great sking their as well, Meyers isnt to bad either, but if you drive in make sure you have chains, for the winter storms can close highways quickly. There all great places all around the lake but I would go online and make reservations now because it is allways busy this time of year.
This is my first time to Tahoe. I need information on North Lake Tahoe accommodations + beginner lessons - suggestions needed around Dec 23 - 25 or Dec 28 - Dec 31 for just 2 or 3 nights. We will be going in a group of 4 - 6 people. I heard that if you buy a package which includes Ski lessons plus stay, it turns out a bit cheaper. Any suggestions on this? I heard that Northstar and Squaw Valley are the best. Is this true?North Lake Tahoe accommodations + beginner lessons - suggestions needed?
Kings beach is good, as is a few other places that I can mention but dont remember, also try Truckee, it is not far from there and there is great sking their as well, Meyers isnt to bad either, but if you drive in make sure you have chains, for the winter storms can close highways quickly. There all great places all around the lake but I would go online and make reservations now because it is allways busy this time of year.
What is a good beginner dog?
my friend wants to adopt her first dog ever. She is a small person who is not very strong so like a big strong dog like a lab (that will pull her arms off on walks) would not be a good idea I think.What is a good beginner dog?
Jack Russel's are perfect for small people or people who want small dogs. They're full of energy, yet will be very obedient w/ training and tend to be tough little dogs. They are great for families and kids and are moderately to pretty easy to house train.
Also any kind of mutt or crossbreed is great for beginners because they get all the traits from it's breeds and they are loyal and tend to be more obedient than most purebreds. Go to the pound, pet store, and ask their opinion and see what they have, they're very helpful.What is a good beginner dog?
Need more info.
How much room does she have? Does she live on a ranch, or does she have a small apartment?
Does she prefer a long haired dog, short haired dog? Is she prepared to have the dog groomed once a month for $40 a visit?
I can tell you that cockapoos are very hard to potty train.........so she probably won't want that. The person who suggested an Italian Greyhound......that's probably not the best bet either as they EASILY break their legs and she'd need to be home with it all day.
Beagles are great, so are Pomeranians, Cairn Terriers, Jack Russells, Rat Terriers.......... but again, this all depends on the amount of grooming she wants to have done.
My personal suggestion is to go to an animal shelter and find an unwanted dog that she bonds with and adopt it.
I suggest renting from the library, or buying a dog breed book. It goes through the size, care, and temperments of the breed. Of course it's generalized, you can find exceptions with any breed.
Looking through it, you or she might be able to find a dog that would suit her lifestyle the best. That's what's most important.
Just because a dog is big doesnt mean you should shy away from it. If she gets it young enough they can be trained to NOT pull when on the leash. :)
A havanese would be a perfect fit for your friend. They come in many colors, are very intelligent and are willing and want to please their owners. I will put in a few links of pictures of the adorable dogs and there breed standard which is posted from the american kennel club. They average at 8 pounds. Probably the smartest little dog you will ever meet and the most adorable! hope this helps:
here are some links to pictures:
http://www.bichon.de/havanese/havanese3.鈥?/a>
http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/images8/Hava鈥?/a>
here is the breed standard:
General Appearance
The Havanese is a small sturdy dog of immense charm. He is slightly longer than tall, and covered with a profuse mantle of untrimmed long, silky, wavy hair. His plumed tail is carried loosely curled over his rump. A native of Cuba, he has evolved over the centuries from the pampered lap-dog of the aristocracy into what he is today - the quintessential family pet of a people living on a small tropical island. His duties traditionally have been those of companion, watchdog, child's playmate and herder of the family poultry flock. His presentation in the show ring should reflect his function - always in excellent condition but never so elaborately coifed as to preclude an impromptu romp in the leaves, as his character is essentially playful rather than decorative.
While historically always a toy dog and therefore never overly large or coarse, he does not appear so fragile as to make him unsuitable as a child's pet. His unique coat reflects centuries in the tropics, and protects against heat. It is remarkably soft and light in texture, profuse without being harsh or woolly. Likewise, the furnishings of the head are believed to protect the eyes from the harsh tropical sun, and have traditionally never been gathered in a topknot for this reason.
In both structure and gait, the Havanese is not easily mistaken for any other breed. His characteristic topline, rising slightly from withers to rump is a result of moderate angulation both fore and aft combined with a typically short upper arm. The resulting springy gait is flashy rather than far-reaching and unique to the breed. The overall impression of the dog on the move is one of agility rather than excessive ability to cover ground. These characteristics of temperament, structure and gait contribute in large part to the character of the breed, and are essential to type.
Size, Proportion and Substance
The height range is from 8陆 to 11陆 inches, with the ideal being between 9 and 10陆 inches, measured at the withers, and is slightly less than the length from point of shoulder to point of buttocks, creating a rectangular outline rather than a square one. The Havanese is a sturdy little dog, and should never appear fragile. A coarse dog with excessive bone is likewise contrary to type and therefore equally undesirable. The minimum height ranges set forth in the description above shall not apply to dogs and bitches under twelve months of age. Disqualification: Height at withers under 8陆 inches or over 11陆 inches, except that the minimum height ranges set forth in the description above shall not apply to dogs or bitches under twelve months of age.
Head
The expression is soft and intelligent, mischievous rather than cute. The eyes are dark brown, large, almond-shaped, and set rather widely apart. Dark eyes are preferred irrespective of coat color, although the chocolate colored dog may have somewhat lighter eyes. The pigment on the eyerims is complete, solid black for all colors except for the chocolate dog which has complete solid, dark chocolate pigment. No other dilution of pigment is acceptable. Ears are of medium length; the leather, when extended, reaches halfway to the nose. They are set high on the skull, slightly above the endpoint of the zygomatic arch, and are broad at the base, showing a distinct fold. When the dog is alert, the ears lift at the base, producing an unbroken shallow arc from the outer edge of each ear across the backskull. The backskull is broad and slightly rounded. The stop is moderate. Length of muzzle is slightly less than length of back skull measured from stop to point of occiput and the planes are level. The nose is broad and squarish, fitting a full and rectangular muzzle, with no indication of snipiness. The pigment on the nose and lips is complete, solid black for all colors except for the chocolate dog which has complete solid, dark chocolate brown pigment. No other dilution of pigment is acceptable. A scissors bite is ideal. Full complement of incisors preferred. Disqualifications: Complete absence of black (or chocolate in the chocolate dog) pigmentation on the eyerims, nose or lips.
Neck, Topline, and Body
The neck is of moderate length, in balance with the height and length of the dog. It carries a slight arch and blends smoothly into the shoulders. The topline is straight but not level, rising slightly from withers to rump. There is no indication of a roach back. The body, measured from point of shoulder to point of buttocks, is slightly longer than the height at the withers. This length comes from the ribcage and not from the short, well-muscled loin. The chest is deep, rather broad in front, and reaches the elbow. The ribs are well sprung. There is a moderate tuck-up. The tail is high-set and plumed with long, silky hair. It arcs forward over the back, but neither lies flat on the back nor is tightly curled. On the move the tail is carried loosely curled over the rump. The long plume of the hair may fall straight forward or to either side of the body. The tail may not be docked.
Forequarters
Shoulder layback is moderate, lying not more than 40 degrees off vertical. Extreme shoulder layback will negatively affect proper gait, and should be faulted. The tops of the shoulder blades lie in at the withers, allowing the neck to merge smoothly into the back. The upper arm is relatively short, but there is sufficient angle between the shoulder and upper arm to set the legs well under the body with a pronounced forechest. The elbows turn neither in nor out, and are tight to the body. Forelegs are well-boned and straight when viewed from any angle. The distance from the foot to the elbow is equal to the distance from elbow to withers. The pasterns are short, strong and flexible, very slightly sloping. Dewclaws may be removed. The feet are round, with well arched toes, and turn neither in nor out. Pads and nails may be black, white, pink, or a combination of these colors. Chocolate dogs may also have brown pads and nails.
Hindquarters
The hind legs are well-boned and muscular through the thigh, with moderate angulation. The hocks are short and turn neither in nor out. In normal stance, the hind legs are parallel to each other from hock to heel and all the joints are in line when viewed from the rear. The rear assembly, in which the rump is slightly higher than the withers, contributes to the breed's unique, springy gait. Dewclaws should be removed. The hind feet fall slightly behind a perpendicular line from point of buttock when viewed from the side. Hind feet have well arched toes and turn neither in nor out. Pads and nails may be black, white, pink or a combination of these colors. Chocolate dogs may also have brown pads and nails.
Coat
The coat is double, but without the harsh standoff guard hair and woolly undercoat usually associated with double coats. Rather, it is soft and light in texture throughout, though the outer coat carries slightly more weight. The long hair is abundant and, ideally, wavy. An ideal coat will not be so profuse nor overly long as to obscure the natural lines of the dog. Puppies may have a shorter coat. A single, flat coat or an excessively curly coat are equally contrary to type and should be faulted. Disqualifications: A coarse, wiry coat. An atypical short coat on an adult dog (atypical would be smooth, flat coat with, or without furnishings.)
Color
All colors are acceptable, singly or in any combination. No preference is given to one color over another. The skin may be freckled or parti-colored.
Gait
The Havanese gait is lively, elegant, resilient, and unique, contributing greatly to the breed's overall essential typiness. The characteristic ';spring'; is caused by the strong rear drive combined with a ';flashy'; front action effected by the short upper arm. While a truly typey dog is incapable of exaggerated reach and drive, the action does not appear stilted or hackneyed. The slightly higher rear may cause a correctly built specimen to show a flash of pad coming and going. The front legs reach forwardfreely. There is good extension in the rear and no tendency toward sickle hocks. The topline holds under movement, neither flattening nor roaching. Head carriage is typically high, even on the move.
Temperament
Playful and alert. The Havanese is both trainable and intelligent with a sweet, non-quarrelsome disposition.
Presentation
The dog should be shown as naturally as is consistent with good grooming. He may be shown either brushed or corded. His coat should be clean and well conditioned. In mature specimens, the length of the coat may cause it to fall to either side down the back but it should not appear to be artificially parted. The long, untrimmed head furnishings may fall forward over the eyes, naturally and gracefully to either side of the skull, or be held in two small braids beginning above the outer corner of the eyes, secured with plain elastic bands. (No ribbons or bows are permitted.) Corded coats will naturally separate into wavy sections in young dogs and will in time develop into cords. Adult corded dogs will be completely covered with a full coat of tassle-like cords. In either coat, minimal trimming of the hair at the inside corner of the eye is allowed for hygienic purposes only, not an attempt to resculpt the planes of the head. Minimal trimming around the anal and genital areas, for hygienic purposes only, is permissible but should not be noticeable on presentation. The hair on the feet and between the pads should be neatly trimmed for the express purpose of a tidy presentation. Any other trimming or sculpting of the coat is to be severely penalized as to preclude placement. Because correct gait is essential to breed type, the Havanese is presented at natural speed on a loose lead.
Faults
The foregoing description is that of the ideal Havanese. Any deviation from the above described dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation keeping in mind the importance of the contribution of the various features toward the ';original purpose of the breed.';
Disqualification
Height at withers under 8陆 or over 11陆 inches except that the minimum height range shall not apply to dogs or bitches under twelve months of age.
Complete absence of black ( or chocolate in the chocolate dog) pigmentation on the eyerims, nose or lips.
Coarse, wiry coat.
An atypical short coat on an adult. (Atypical refers to a smooth, flat coat with, or without furnishings.)
An all American with hound in it!!!! They are lazy type dogs till on a track Small feet means small dog or mediumft means medium size. No terrriors, Corkies or lab mixed
Any ol pup from the pound.
I have 2 previously abused dogs here and they are great pets. We love each other so much I cant believe what a difference they have made in my life. I still remember the first time I gave my little poodle a piece of steak. He acted like he he couldnt believe what was happening. After he hopped up and licked my face for the first time.
Sigh
TRY to rescue an abused dog who needs a good home. You wont be sorry
It depends on how much time and money she can put into the dog... Some dogs require alot of exercise, some need to be groomed at least monthly, and some have lots of health problems. She should research all the breeds she's considering before she buys one. One of the biggest mistakes people make with dogs is choosing a breed that doesn't suit them.
I would suggest a chihuahua. They are cute, loyal, and easy to care for.
http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbvi鈥?/a>
http://www.driftwoodminis.com/images/chi鈥?/a>
http://www.dogpage.us/images/1595430822.鈥?/a>
A Hot Dog =]
Money can't buy exercise, grooming or love. I suggest a medium sized mutt from the shelter. There is no better reward than being able to adopt a homeless dog from the shelter. They are friendly and have all been temperament tested.
http://www.petfinder.com is an excellent website to find dogs in shelters in your area. Just type in which breed you want and your zip code.
Just so you can tell your friend; a Labrador is only a strong dog on the lead if it is not properly trained. Any large/strong breed can be easy for a small person to walk, she just needs to spend time in training.
You say your friend is ';rich';. How much time does she spend shopping, going out, dating, staying away, holidaying etc.? Her dog will need at minimum 40 minutes of walking on and off lead each day. He will need grooming at minimum once per week. He needs time, love and attention. If she spends lots of time going out, how will she be able to housebreak the dog (if a puppy) or train him?
hot dog
Pick a friendly dog that isn't too jumpy or a lot of maitenance...a couple of good breeds would be something like a beagle, dauchund, or an italian greyhound. Have her go to the local shelter and they'll help her pick out one that is suitable for her.
when choosing your new family member, remeber that it will be with you for about 15 years.what is your lifestyle? laid back, outdoors? What kind of yard/ fencing do you have?
How much poo are you wiling to clean up?
Dont rush into a decision and dont go into what I call ';puppy lala land'; dont buy because ';awww its soooo cute.';
research yourself, and what you will be doing with your new family member. Then research the breed.
For first time owners, sometimes you may want to start with an older dog that is allready house broke and calm.
good luck and congrats!
Jack Russel's are perfect for small people or people who want small dogs. They're full of energy, yet will be very obedient w/ training and tend to be tough little dogs. They are great for families and kids and are moderately to pretty easy to house train.
Also any kind of mutt or crossbreed is great for beginners because they get all the traits from it's breeds and they are loyal and tend to be more obedient than most purebreds. Go to the pound, pet store, and ask their opinion and see what they have, they're very helpful.What is a good beginner dog?
Need more info.
How much room does she have? Does she live on a ranch, or does she have a small apartment?
Does she prefer a long haired dog, short haired dog? Is she prepared to have the dog groomed once a month for $40 a visit?
I can tell you that cockapoos are very hard to potty train.........so she probably won't want that. The person who suggested an Italian Greyhound......that's probably not the best bet either as they EASILY break their legs and she'd need to be home with it all day.
Beagles are great, so are Pomeranians, Cairn Terriers, Jack Russells, Rat Terriers.......... but again, this all depends on the amount of grooming she wants to have done.
My personal suggestion is to go to an animal shelter and find an unwanted dog that she bonds with and adopt it.
I suggest renting from the library, or buying a dog breed book. It goes through the size, care, and temperments of the breed. Of course it's generalized, you can find exceptions with any breed.
Looking through it, you or she might be able to find a dog that would suit her lifestyle the best. That's what's most important.
Just because a dog is big doesnt mean you should shy away from it. If she gets it young enough they can be trained to NOT pull when on the leash. :)
A havanese would be a perfect fit for your friend. They come in many colors, are very intelligent and are willing and want to please their owners. I will put in a few links of pictures of the adorable dogs and there breed standard which is posted from the american kennel club. They average at 8 pounds. Probably the smartest little dog you will ever meet and the most adorable! hope this helps:
here are some links to pictures:
http://www.bichon.de/havanese/havanese3.鈥?/a>
http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/images8/Hava鈥?/a>
here is the breed standard:
General Appearance
The Havanese is a small sturdy dog of immense charm. He is slightly longer than tall, and covered with a profuse mantle of untrimmed long, silky, wavy hair. His plumed tail is carried loosely curled over his rump. A native of Cuba, he has evolved over the centuries from the pampered lap-dog of the aristocracy into what he is today - the quintessential family pet of a people living on a small tropical island. His duties traditionally have been those of companion, watchdog, child's playmate and herder of the family poultry flock. His presentation in the show ring should reflect his function - always in excellent condition but never so elaborately coifed as to preclude an impromptu romp in the leaves, as his character is essentially playful rather than decorative.
While historically always a toy dog and therefore never overly large or coarse, he does not appear so fragile as to make him unsuitable as a child's pet. His unique coat reflects centuries in the tropics, and protects against heat. It is remarkably soft and light in texture, profuse without being harsh or woolly. Likewise, the furnishings of the head are believed to protect the eyes from the harsh tropical sun, and have traditionally never been gathered in a topknot for this reason.
In both structure and gait, the Havanese is not easily mistaken for any other breed. His characteristic topline, rising slightly from withers to rump is a result of moderate angulation both fore and aft combined with a typically short upper arm. The resulting springy gait is flashy rather than far-reaching and unique to the breed. The overall impression of the dog on the move is one of agility rather than excessive ability to cover ground. These characteristics of temperament, structure and gait contribute in large part to the character of the breed, and are essential to type.
Size, Proportion and Substance
The height range is from 8陆 to 11陆 inches, with the ideal being between 9 and 10陆 inches, measured at the withers, and is slightly less than the length from point of shoulder to point of buttocks, creating a rectangular outline rather than a square one. The Havanese is a sturdy little dog, and should never appear fragile. A coarse dog with excessive bone is likewise contrary to type and therefore equally undesirable. The minimum height ranges set forth in the description above shall not apply to dogs and bitches under twelve months of age. Disqualification: Height at withers under 8陆 inches or over 11陆 inches, except that the minimum height ranges set forth in the description above shall not apply to dogs or bitches under twelve months of age.
Head
The expression is soft and intelligent, mischievous rather than cute. The eyes are dark brown, large, almond-shaped, and set rather widely apart. Dark eyes are preferred irrespective of coat color, although the chocolate colored dog may have somewhat lighter eyes. The pigment on the eyerims is complete, solid black for all colors except for the chocolate dog which has complete solid, dark chocolate pigment. No other dilution of pigment is acceptable. Ears are of medium length; the leather, when extended, reaches halfway to the nose. They are set high on the skull, slightly above the endpoint of the zygomatic arch, and are broad at the base, showing a distinct fold. When the dog is alert, the ears lift at the base, producing an unbroken shallow arc from the outer edge of each ear across the backskull. The backskull is broad and slightly rounded. The stop is moderate. Length of muzzle is slightly less than length of back skull measured from stop to point of occiput and the planes are level. The nose is broad and squarish, fitting a full and rectangular muzzle, with no indication of snipiness. The pigment on the nose and lips is complete, solid black for all colors except for the chocolate dog which has complete solid, dark chocolate brown pigment. No other dilution of pigment is acceptable. A scissors bite is ideal. Full complement of incisors preferred. Disqualifications: Complete absence of black (or chocolate in the chocolate dog) pigmentation on the eyerims, nose or lips.
Neck, Topline, and Body
The neck is of moderate length, in balance with the height and length of the dog. It carries a slight arch and blends smoothly into the shoulders. The topline is straight but not level, rising slightly from withers to rump. There is no indication of a roach back. The body, measured from point of shoulder to point of buttocks, is slightly longer than the height at the withers. This length comes from the ribcage and not from the short, well-muscled loin. The chest is deep, rather broad in front, and reaches the elbow. The ribs are well sprung. There is a moderate tuck-up. The tail is high-set and plumed with long, silky hair. It arcs forward over the back, but neither lies flat on the back nor is tightly curled. On the move the tail is carried loosely curled over the rump. The long plume of the hair may fall straight forward or to either side of the body. The tail may not be docked.
Forequarters
Shoulder layback is moderate, lying not more than 40 degrees off vertical. Extreme shoulder layback will negatively affect proper gait, and should be faulted. The tops of the shoulder blades lie in at the withers, allowing the neck to merge smoothly into the back. The upper arm is relatively short, but there is sufficient angle between the shoulder and upper arm to set the legs well under the body with a pronounced forechest. The elbows turn neither in nor out, and are tight to the body. Forelegs are well-boned and straight when viewed from any angle. The distance from the foot to the elbow is equal to the distance from elbow to withers. The pasterns are short, strong and flexible, very slightly sloping. Dewclaws may be removed. The feet are round, with well arched toes, and turn neither in nor out. Pads and nails may be black, white, pink, or a combination of these colors. Chocolate dogs may also have brown pads and nails.
Hindquarters
The hind legs are well-boned and muscular through the thigh, with moderate angulation. The hocks are short and turn neither in nor out. In normal stance, the hind legs are parallel to each other from hock to heel and all the joints are in line when viewed from the rear. The rear assembly, in which the rump is slightly higher than the withers, contributes to the breed's unique, springy gait. Dewclaws should be removed. The hind feet fall slightly behind a perpendicular line from point of buttock when viewed from the side. Hind feet have well arched toes and turn neither in nor out. Pads and nails may be black, white, pink or a combination of these colors. Chocolate dogs may also have brown pads and nails.
Coat
The coat is double, but without the harsh standoff guard hair and woolly undercoat usually associated with double coats. Rather, it is soft and light in texture throughout, though the outer coat carries slightly more weight. The long hair is abundant and, ideally, wavy. An ideal coat will not be so profuse nor overly long as to obscure the natural lines of the dog. Puppies may have a shorter coat. A single, flat coat or an excessively curly coat are equally contrary to type and should be faulted. Disqualifications: A coarse, wiry coat. An atypical short coat on an adult dog (atypical would be smooth, flat coat with, or without furnishings.)
Color
All colors are acceptable, singly or in any combination. No preference is given to one color over another. The skin may be freckled or parti-colored.
Gait
The Havanese gait is lively, elegant, resilient, and unique, contributing greatly to the breed's overall essential typiness. The characteristic ';spring'; is caused by the strong rear drive combined with a ';flashy'; front action effected by the short upper arm. While a truly typey dog is incapable of exaggerated reach and drive, the action does not appear stilted or hackneyed. The slightly higher rear may cause a correctly built specimen to show a flash of pad coming and going. The front legs reach forwardfreely. There is good extension in the rear and no tendency toward sickle hocks. The topline holds under movement, neither flattening nor roaching. Head carriage is typically high, even on the move.
Temperament
Playful and alert. The Havanese is both trainable and intelligent with a sweet, non-quarrelsome disposition.
Presentation
The dog should be shown as naturally as is consistent with good grooming. He may be shown either brushed or corded. His coat should be clean and well conditioned. In mature specimens, the length of the coat may cause it to fall to either side down the back but it should not appear to be artificially parted. The long, untrimmed head furnishings may fall forward over the eyes, naturally and gracefully to either side of the skull, or be held in two small braids beginning above the outer corner of the eyes, secured with plain elastic bands. (No ribbons or bows are permitted.) Corded coats will naturally separate into wavy sections in young dogs and will in time develop into cords. Adult corded dogs will be completely covered with a full coat of tassle-like cords. In either coat, minimal trimming of the hair at the inside corner of the eye is allowed for hygienic purposes only, not an attempt to resculpt the planes of the head. Minimal trimming around the anal and genital areas, for hygienic purposes only, is permissible but should not be noticeable on presentation. The hair on the feet and between the pads should be neatly trimmed for the express purpose of a tidy presentation. Any other trimming or sculpting of the coat is to be severely penalized as to preclude placement. Because correct gait is essential to breed type, the Havanese is presented at natural speed on a loose lead.
Faults
The foregoing description is that of the ideal Havanese. Any deviation from the above described dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation keeping in mind the importance of the contribution of the various features toward the ';original purpose of the breed.';
Disqualification
Height at withers under 8陆 or over 11陆 inches except that the minimum height range shall not apply to dogs or bitches under twelve months of age.
Complete absence of black ( or chocolate in the chocolate dog) pigmentation on the eyerims, nose or lips.
Coarse, wiry coat.
An atypical short coat on an adult. (Atypical refers to a smooth, flat coat with, or without furnishings.)
An all American with hound in it!!!! They are lazy type dogs till on a track Small feet means small dog or mediumft means medium size. No terrriors, Corkies or lab mixed
Any ol pup from the pound.
I have 2 previously abused dogs here and they are great pets. We love each other so much I cant believe what a difference they have made in my life. I still remember the first time I gave my little poodle a piece of steak. He acted like he he couldnt believe what was happening. After he hopped up and licked my face for the first time.
Sigh
TRY to rescue an abused dog who needs a good home. You wont be sorry
It depends on how much time and money she can put into the dog... Some dogs require alot of exercise, some need to be groomed at least monthly, and some have lots of health problems. She should research all the breeds she's considering before she buys one. One of the biggest mistakes people make with dogs is choosing a breed that doesn't suit them.
I would suggest a chihuahua. They are cute, loyal, and easy to care for.
http://www1.istockphoto.com/file_thumbvi鈥?/a>
http://www.driftwoodminis.com/images/chi鈥?/a>
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A Hot Dog =]
Money can't buy exercise, grooming or love. I suggest a medium sized mutt from the shelter. There is no better reward than being able to adopt a homeless dog from the shelter. They are friendly and have all been temperament tested.
http://www.petfinder.com is an excellent website to find dogs in shelters in your area. Just type in which breed you want and your zip code.
Just so you can tell your friend; a Labrador is only a strong dog on the lead if it is not properly trained. Any large/strong breed can be easy for a small person to walk, she just needs to spend time in training.
You say your friend is ';rich';. How much time does she spend shopping, going out, dating, staying away, holidaying etc.? Her dog will need at minimum 40 minutes of walking on and off lead each day. He will need grooming at minimum once per week. He needs time, love and attention. If she spends lots of time going out, how will she be able to housebreak the dog (if a puppy) or train him?
hot dog
Pick a friendly dog that isn't too jumpy or a lot of maitenance...a couple of good breeds would be something like a beagle, dauchund, or an italian greyhound. Have her go to the local shelter and they'll help her pick out one that is suitable for her.
when choosing your new family member, remeber that it will be with you for about 15 years.what is your lifestyle? laid back, outdoors? What kind of yard/ fencing do you have?
How much poo are you wiling to clean up?
Dont rush into a decision and dont go into what I call ';puppy lala land'; dont buy because ';awww its soooo cute.';
research yourself, and what you will be doing with your new family member. Then research the breed.
For first time owners, sometimes you may want to start with an older dog that is allready house broke and calm.
good luck and congrats!
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